A true taste of the trail community in Hot Springs

What was supposed to be a two-day jaunt through Hot Springs, North Carolina, ended up being a one-day, 18-mile drive to get into town. A group of our friends, Alpha, Rambo, Trouble, Pacemaker, Backstab and Food Truck had gone into town and found a campsite at Hot Springs Resort and Spa. That was enough motivation for us to do the last 3 miles into town in the afternoon instead of the morning.

The terrain on the way into town was relatively easy compared to what we had just been through in The Smokies, and our packs were much lighter having eaten most of our food. By the time we reached the shelter we planned to stop at (just 3 miles from town), we had more than enough energy to walk down the hill toward the main drag.

Hot Springs is a really cool little town because the AT runs right through it. Up until this point, every city required some sort of sophisticated logistics for how to get to and from the same point. It was quite comforting to walk right in. The whole place is only about half a mile long, so you can get an idea of ​​what you’re working with on the way to the campsite on the other side.

Freshly clean Russell and Jessie head out for a night on the town.

We finally made it to camp and were so excited to see everyone in one place again. However, the tiredness and smell emanating from our beings were too distracting, so our reunion was short-lived as we headed to the bathhouse.

They were the trailer showers at the campground and all the hot water had run out hours before. Our first cold showers of the trip weren’t necessarily the worst. Honestly, we were so happy to have some semblance of feeling clean. However, no shampoo or body wash was provided. I ended up jumping out of the shower to see how a foaming hand soap would work as a shampoo. It wasn’t great, but I guess it did the job.

Live music at the bar/taqueria at the end of town.

Now a little more presentable, we went out to dinner with all the people from the camp at a taco place at the end of town. We were very excited and surprised to see our friends Phantom and River there with other people we had met in The Smokies, Pickup, and Stair Master.

It looked like Hot Springs was going to be a hub for seeing people we hadn’t seen in a week or two on the road. I texted our friend Chipper to see if he was in town too and found out he was staying in an AirBnB with a bunch of other people. It turns out that one of the hikers he was staying with was a former Michelin-starred chef who was cooking a massive dinner for everyone.

He sent us the address and we were on our way with a group of 6 people. We entered the house and found a great dinner and a LOT of food. I was worried that we had made a mistake by bringing so many people, but it seemed like there was more than enough for everyone.

A group of hikers begins serving family dinner.

Mama Bear had prepared an absolutely excellent dinner, and the host/benefactor of it all, Nemo, made everyone feel included and welcome. It was a moment of true trail community that felt quite healthy and beautiful.

Working on the Appalachian Trail puzzle and chatting about landmarks to come.

While some guests left to go to the bar, most of us chose to stay, chat and get to know each other a little better while solving a puzzle. Jessie and I sat there until 11:00 pm (well past our typical bedtime) talking to Size Queen, Salamander, Stair Master, Pickup and Nemo. We honestly didn’t want to go, but we thought a little rest would be nice after an 18 mile day.

Possibly the best omelette I’ve ever had at The Smoky Mountain Diner.

The next morning started gloriously at The Smoky Mountain Diner. Now I love southern food, and this place was among the best. I can’t tell if it’s just because I’m hungrier or if the food was THAT good. We went there with a group of 10 people, I completely cleaned my plate and helped 3 other people clean theirs.

On the way back through town we stopped at The Bluff Mountain Outfitters to pick up some toe socks so I could wear my sandals on the trail with a little extra protection. We also picked up a package from Jessie’s mom that contained a good portion of our resupply with lots of goodies. (Thanks Jessie’s mom!)

A trail festival held in Hot Springs, North Carolina.

A festival was held that day in Hot Springs for all the hikers. The resort had a bunch of pop-up tents selling random goods to hikers and tourists alike. We ended up buying some instant soup and signed up some rubber ducks for the river race later in the afternoon before heading back to Elmer’s Sunnybank Inn to check in.

The inn was an incredibly interesting building, built in the 1840s. Despite all the history it has been through, one would expect it to feel much more haunted. I found it quite cozy and fascinating, although Jessie seemed to find it a little creepy. The library was filled with books about nature and the Appalachian Trail. The music room had a fun selection of instruments to choose from. It was the first time I had played the piano in a long time and it honestly felt very refreshing.

People gathered at the finish line to help collect ducks from the creek.

We got our lunch and ate it in the back garden. It was a nice relaxing time while we waited for the big duck race downtown. The race itself was an event to behold. The small center of Hot Springs was packed with people hoping their duck would be the big winner.

The energy and excitement levels were comparable to the Super Bowl or Talladega. People screamed and screamed as those plastic ducks floated with their little hearts down the river. We were devastated to discover that we were not the winners.

(As a little side note, Jessie got to try her first honeysuckle!)

Our friend, Size Queen, was incredibly excited about all the pasta we were about to eat.

We ended up heading back to the AirBnB where Mama Bear had once again prepared a wonderful dinner for everyone. The night was a little more relaxed and conversational until we all started joking about releasing the 2019 movie Cats to finish the puzzle.

The AT puzzle finished with the movie playing in the background.

The movie… was something, but we ended up finishing the puzzle! It was too late once again when we left, so we tiptoed into The Inn and passed out.

A view of the French Broad River as we left town.

We spent our last morning in Hot Springs preparing our resupply and returning to the Air BnB once again for breakfast. As we reviewed our mileage over breakfast, we discovered that a group of us were going at the same pace to Erwin. Plans were made to walk together as a nice little family for the next 70 miles.

Mama Bear and Nemo left a little early because they had a LOT more miles to cover in less time, but we made sure to thank them for everything they had done before they left. When they had already eaten many pancakes, we started on the road again.

Our time in Hot Springs was one of the most communal and memorable so far. It’s easy to see why so many hikers flock here. We’re a little sad to leave it behind, but the trail is calling!

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