As I looked at the photos I took of the first 550 miles, each one of them really doesn’t convey the feel of each of the places that makes it special.
Here’s what I thought was cool:
1. Amicolola Falls
2. The Len Foote Walking Hotel
3. The first white flare
4. The music store in Clayton
5. The Smokehouse in Franklin
6. Not Just Donuts in Franklin at 6:30 am
7. A random rock lookout from the trail on the first Sunday morning.
8. Finding the St Martha Catholic Church, Point Pleasant, New Jersey, live stream Sunday Mass with Father Dave
9. The Fruity Pebbles donut from the NOC coffee truck
10. Gambling House Hostel and Rambling Roots
11. One Way Ministries at Trail Days
12. The Hike Inn near Fontana Dam
13. Tennessee north of the Smokies
14. Laurel Canyon
15. The Southern Cookie Lady
16. Carver Gap and Roan Highlands
17. Hump Mountain and Little Hump Mountain, by far the best views on the trail up to that point.
18. Uncle Johnny’s Hostel
19. The “Stand By Me” train trestle
20. Sunshine and Boots Off Hostel
21. The Watauga Lake Water Fire
22. The hiking team works on a steak dinner at the Broken Fiddle Lodge.
23. The unexpected beauty of Burke’s Garden Valley
24. Cantalope and The Burke’s Garden Hostel
25. And of course playing my guitar.
Things I didn’t like so much:
1. One or two hikers who have a visible lack of respect for the trail and businesses on the trail.
2. One or two dog owners who do not control their dogs on the road.
3. The number of cigarettes young people smoke and vape on the road.
4. Smoked ones
5. Gatlinburg
6. Lack of constant and decent food replenishment
7. Frozen pizza
8. The log stairs on the detour north of Damascus.
Things I’ve learned or opinions I’ve developed
1. Interactions with communities make a difference. There are many green tunnels. I look for opportunities to make the walk more of a pilgrimage.
2. I’ve had time to be contemplative (Mike and Jerry, please don’t fall off your chair if you’re reading this).
3. I am definitely blessed. The weather for the past two months while hiking has been almost perfect. When the brutal weather hit, either things happened that got me out of there, or I was somewhere safe and dry.
4. I know that I am walking with the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit. It’s hard to explain, but I know. And I am very grateful.
5. This hike in 2026 is significantly more expensive than my hike in 2022.
6. I have backpacked many times over the last few years. I thought I had chosen good shoes during my test walks. I was completely wrong.
7. Even with three months of training and testing at home, my body was not prepared for this hike. I continue to struggle with Achilles tendon problems.
8. Getting my “road sections” is like climbing false summits. Just when I think I’m there, I find out I’m not.
9. Trail surface variability (rocks, roots, and side-to-side angles) is a bigger problem than steep grades.
10. Nutrition is very important and I still haven’t figured out what works with what’s available.
11. I have stayed in several hostels. The social culture in a hostel is where friendships are forged. The shelters are fine, but there is a very different dynamic. There are too many tasks to do, and yes, while everyone is cooking, drawing water, preparing and packing, there is conversation that builds friendship, but hostels are where people relax and have more time to get to know each other.
12. I walk alone most of the day. Even when I hike with a team from camp to camp, lodge to lodge, or lodge to lodge, I am alone for most of the eight hours of the day while hiking. I’m only 5 minutes ahead and 5 minutes behind my friends and I never know until I stop for a break or at the end of the day.
13. My mental purpose is to get closer to God, strengthen my walk with Jesus, become more contemplative, and learn more about being Catholic. It’s been fantastic. I wouldn’t trade this time inside my head for anything. The fear has dissipated. I hope all of this continues after I complete my hike.
14. I’m taking zeros. Zeros are days of rest in which you do not walk. It is impossible to walk like this day after day without days of rest. We have settled into a four-day, one-day-zero walking pattern. The weather will also affect this. Double zeros are common. More than two zeros in a row is a vortex in trail lingo. This also happens. These are considerations in the overall schedule.
15. Through all this pain, hunger and other possible negative moments, there are moments of pure joy and love. You just have to recognize them. It’s worth every minute.
16. Unsweetened tea or sweet tea is available in most places, however, there are shops that only sell sweet tea and extra sweet tea in some parts of the southern part of the trail.
17. The right Kentucky Derby cake contains nuts. It also has chocolate, caramel, nuts, a dollop of whipped cream and, of course, bourbon.
18. At Groovy Smoothie in Erwin, Tennessee, order the “Mystery Machine.” The ingredients are listed as «trust us.»
To the next 500 miles.
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