C2C Day 8: Keld to Grinton

Previous: C2C/Pennine Way Day 7 – Tan Hill Inn

Rain

Although it had drizzled or drizzled very briefly almost every day of our hike, we felt lucky weather-wise. This was the first day it really rained. Fortunately, we weren’t in a hurry today and everyone’s weather apps indicated that the rain would stop by mid-morning. So we waited patiently inside. Outside, the sheep were huddled against the stone walls.

Looking out our window at Frith Lodge

However, in the end we had to move on. We said goodbye to our hiking companions, some who were on our path and others who were not. Karen and Neil gave us a big goodbye. I sure hope to see them again someday!

Bird of the day: the Eurasian wren, impressive for its size-sound ratio.

Halfway!

The big event of the morning was passing the new C2C intermediate marker, which was supposed to be at the junction of C2C and the Pennine Way. It was a long descent to the River Swale from Frith Lodge, and when we recovered the C2C, the halfway marker was right there. After the obligatory photos, we headed along the River Swale for a walk through beautiful Swaledale. The weather improved as the day progressed, but it was never hot. And although we didn’t stop there, the small town of Gunnerside looked very attractive. Next time!

We were officially halfway there!

We ate our peanut butter sandwiches made by Karen as we sat by the Swale. There were a lot of people walking around, which wasn’t too surprising given that it was Saturday. Nick from Gloucestershire passed us while we were having lunch, but I think the other two couples from Frith Lodge took the high route. Between the weather and a profound lack of interest in mining history, we opted for the incredibly scenic low route along the Swale. And, by the way, the “low” route is not always low. Sometimes we were high enough to be in the clouds.

The path can really change sometimes, and suddenly!

Reeth

Reeth is a lovely town. We arrived a little cold, but the Black Bull was warm and welcoming. We had just sat down with our beers when the people sitting by the fire left, and the waiter practically insisted that we move to that table by the fire. I guess we seemed cold. Our new friends from Frith Lodge, Nick (a different Nick) and Matthew, arrived shortly after and we caught up on our various walks from today whilst warming up inside and out.

But unfortunately, unlike Nick and Matthew, we didn’t stay in Reeth. We had to walk a little further to get to Grinton and the Bridge Inn. Once there, I decided it was time to get back to my fish and chips diet, accompanied by a tasty Gamekeeper beer. We had been asking people all day if they had seen One Tom, but we didn’t know anything about him.

Next: C2C Day 9 – Grinton to Caterrick Bridge

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