This was not the week we had planned.
As Europe burned under an intense heatwave, temperatures along our section of the Hexatrek rose to 37-38°C and higher. In the valleys and towns the temperatures were even higher. It quickly became clear that continuing was not the sensible option.
For most hikers, these temperatures would have been very challenging. With my PoTS and ME, they had the potential to become dangerous.
One of the biggest concerns was recovery. To avoid the worst of the heat, we would have had to start walking before dawn every day. But as temperatures remained high well into the night, proper sleep and recovery would have been difficult. An early start combined with poor quality sleep was simply not a sustainable combination. We were also increasingly concerned about water availability and whether we could safely meet our needs under such extreme conditions.
So, for the first time on this trip, we made the difficult decision to go off-road, and it was not an easy choice.
We are heading to Belfort for a couple of days while we define our next steps. Despite enjoying the comfort of a proper bed, I desperately missed life on the trails. I missed waking up to the birds singing. I missed the rustling of the leaves overhead, the sound of the wind moving through the trees, and the feel of the breeze on my face. I missed being outside all day and sleeping under the stars at night. Most of all, I missed the freedom.
On the road, life seems simple. Sure. Useful. Every day revolves around exploring beautiful landscapes on your own. I really feel better physically and mentally when I’m out there.
After just one local walk around Belfort, I realized how much I wanted to return. Getting back on the trails, even briefly, was like reconnecting with an old friend.
To beat the worst of the heat wave, we moved to Besançon for a few days. It turned out to be exactly what we needed.
Our days started ridiculously early, with alarms set for 4am so we could get out for a walk before the heat became oppressive. Those early starts rewarded us with truly spectacular sunrises, quiet trails and cooler temperatures – although “cooler” is relative when you’re faced with an afternoon high of 45°C in the city!
Besançon surprised us. Surrounded by hills and dominated by impressive fortifications, the city offered fantastic walks and a fascinating slice of French history. We explored several of the forts that dominate the city, climbed local peaks, watched the sun rise over the landscape, and discovered that even off-trail adventures can be memorable.
The afternoons were spent exactly where we needed to be: in our wonderful air-conditioned apartment, resting, recovering, and staying safe during the hottest part of the day. We also treated ourselves to excellent food and much-needed massages – little luxuries that helped keep us physically and mentally strong.
Although this week was not part of the Hexatrek, we managed to cover:
• 55.61 miles traveled (262.95 miles total)
• 2,141 meters of ascent (17,000 meters in total)
If we had stayed on the Hexatrek, we would have expected approximately:
• 92.01 miles
• 4,084 meters of ascent
Of course, the numbers only tell part of the story.
Long-distance hiking is not just about tirelessly moving forward. Sometimes it’s about knowing when to stop. Know when to adapt. Know when the mountains (or in this case, the weather) are telling you to change your plans.
This week was a reminder that resilience doesn’t always mean moving forward regardless. Sometimes resilience means making the difficult decision to pause, regroup, and come back stronger. And that’s exactly what we’re doing.
The weather finally begins to cool and we return to where we belong. We will take the train from Besançon to Saignelégier, walk to Goumois and join the Hexatrek. And I honestly can’t wait!
The trail calls me and I return home, where my heart is.
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