I can’t believe I’m already writing this. Week 6 marked our last week on Hexatrek, completing Stage 1, and it was a week.
Monday began with a strange feeling of melancholy. We knew we were on our last week on the road and none of us were ready for it to be over. Then, when we were feeling a little down, we caught our first glimpse of the Alps. Even from so far away they were absolutely stunning and our mood changed instantly. We were ridiculously excited. Knowing that we would be hiking with those mountains on the horizon for the rest of the week made the last few days seem even more special.
By now our sections of trail were well established. We arrived at our end points earlier and earlier each day, covering distances that would have seemed impossible just a few weeks ago.
The week was full of milestones. We climb Mont d’Or (1,463 m), the highest point in the Doubs department, before crossing into Switzerland. Suddenly everything became noticeably more expensive! A visit to the supermarket required much more attention than in France!
A day later, we tackled the biggest climb of Stage 1. More than 900 meters of climbing took us through forests, limestone outcrops, mountain meadows and among curious cows before finally reaching Mont Tendre (1,679 m), the highest mountain in the Swiss Jura and the highest point of Stage 1 of the Hexatrek.
Being there looking towards the Alps and Mont Blanc seemed like a great achievement. We had planned to camp at the top, but the wind had other ideas. It was an absolute howler, so we descended on a converted bus stop we’d seen earlier on the app. It turned out to be a fantastic place to spend the night, sheltered from the wind and certainly much more comfortable than taking a beating at the top.
Our penultimate day became one of reflection. Instead of rushing, we slowed down and really took it all in. Grand Cunay offered another spectacular panorama of the Alps, and the quiet forest trails and flower-filled meadows reminded us why we had fallen in love with this trail. We even had an unexpected rescue when an unattended dog wandered dangerously close to a busy road. Fortunately, some emergency dog treats kept him with us long enough for us to locate his owner.
The last day came much sooner than either of us wanted. Leaving early helped us beat the worst of the heat as we climbed La Dôle (1,671m). The rocky climb rewarded us with fantastic views and chamois sightings before a steep, slippery descent over loose shale. Over time, the vineyards gave way to Nyon and the shores of Lake Geneva.
Thus, Stage 1 was completed. There were no fireworks. There is no great finish line. Just two very happy, very tired hikers standing by the lake, feeling immensely proud.
It’s strange because it feels like it happened so quickly, but at the same time it feels like we’ve been here forever. This quickly became our new normal. It became home. Wake up, pack up our little house, walk, eat, rest, find a place to sleep and repeat. Life became wonderfully simple.
One thing that never failed to make me smile was watching Lee take off his backpack at the end of each day. The relief on her face was exactly like someone taking off their bra after a long day! Every backpacker and woman knows that feeling!
Now that we’re back in civilization, I’m finding the adjustment much harder than I expected. I really feel like a piece of the puzzle that no longer fits. I miss the simplicity of life on the road. Waking up naturally with the sunrise, moving all day, being fully present, eating when we were hungry, resting when we were tired, and sleeping under the stars. There were no alarms, endless notifications, to-do lists, or administrative tasks hanging over us. We spent every day outdoors, breathing fresh air, absorbing vitamin D, surrounded by nature, and constantly stopping to admire another incredible view. The stress just disappeared.
It makes me wonder where we went so wrong. When do we stray so far from what is inherent to us? When do we get on the treadmill of work, possessions, and constantly wanting more? We are the only species on Earth that has to pay simply to exist, and yet the planet provides much of what we really need.
There were definitely days where I wondered if this was the right path for us (pardon the pun!). At my age and set of medical conditions, I was wondering if traveling in a camper or with a tent on the roof and doing day hikes might be the best option. But those doubts became less and less as the weeks went by. The incredible views, the freedom to carry everything we needed on our backs, the constant connection with nature and the satisfaction of walking from one place to another under our own power far outweighed the difficult moments. My body adapted to its new normal and my confidence grew with each passing day.
Here at the end of stage 1, I can honestly say that I feel like I can move forward. The pain is temporary. Pride lasts forever.
If you’ve enjoyed following our trip, you’ll find much more detailed accounts of each day’s walk, along with lots of photos and videos, on my Instagram.
Lake Geneva, our goal.
Much needed vegan cake in Nyon (chocolate with mint).
The happiest of sunflowers!
Suede
Lake Geneva and Mont Blanc
The beauty of Mont Blanc!
Morning views from Grand Cunay
Morning views from Grand Cunay
Home at night! The converted bus stop.
Sunset!
Lake Geneva
Mont Tendre
Enjoying the views of the Alps.
The Alps are unreal!
Mont Blanc
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