This morning began while I was outside chatting with the host of my Bed and Breakfast, looking out over a misty gray river valley, my route for the day. Then I heard the unmistakable sound of a cuckoo calling, the first I’ve heard this spring. I knew I had some money in my pocket and asked my host if he had it too. He was surprised by the question, so I explained. My father always asked that question when we heard a cuckoo. If the answer was no, he would give me a small coin and say: «If you still have a little money at the end of winter, to last you until the next harvests begin, then it means good luck and you will have enough money this year.» So I gave him a coin for his pocket and wished him good luck for this year. It was an unexpected and tender memory of my father, who died many years ago.
Change to Wye Valley Path
Today I switched back to long distance trails and walked part of the Wye Valley River Path. The Wye rises in the Welsh hills and winds its way towards the sea near Chepstow. First I had to get to the road that was on the other side of the river. There was a PROW (Public Right of Way) going there, clearly displayed on the edge of the Bed and Breakfast property. This started off badly, with the signage (technically required by law) missing where the path separated from the highway. There were two doors, quite difficult to open and falling off their hinges. But there was a different path that was going in the right direction.
Unfortunately not for long. The road ended in a swampy, reed-covered ditch field, which got my feet wet. There was no clear path through and an ominous barbed wire fence beyond the swamp.
I retreated, I thought about taking the path of a nearby farm and risk being able to ford the river. My level head prevailed and after walking about a mile along the busy main road, I took a path to a real Ford, marked on the map and, a pleasant surprise, a solid footbridge.
Although the river was fairly shallow, my feet would have been wet and cold if I had crossed it. Good decisions this morning.
After that, the path was clear, up and down the side of the valley, through pastures full of pretty white lambs, in and out of the forest. I liked the jumping fish logo on the trail markings, although unfortunately I didn’t see any fish today.
Throughout the valley the cuckoos sang, asking for a mate. It is curious that this quintessential spring sound comes from a parasitic bird.
Later I changed path again, resuming part of the Cambrian path, a route that crosses all of Wales, staying for the most part in the highest areas. The section I was taking connects with the mountains of Snowdonia further north. I finished the last part of the day on a bus to Ponterwyd.
Sign of the Cambrian, note the traditional Welsh women’s black hat.
These are some of my favorite flowers from this walk so far.
Alcanot blue, the color really pops.
White wood anemones, so demure
Primroses and violets, the perfect colors of spring.
don’t forget me
The hills around the River Wye
Today was a bonding day for me, no pits or harps! Tomorrow I leave the hills, and leave my main route, for a day. I will explore some intriguing possibilities in Aberystwyth.
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