My travels took me inland by train, to visit dear friends in Lismore. One of my many visits to them took place a few years ago, when I was recovering from surgery. They took care of me (and my stressed husband) and helped in my recovery. This was demonstrated again on this visit. I was able to relax, without needing to plan logistics or worry about supplies. I felt cared for and able to rest, recover, and plan the next stages of my journey. Even more, there were also sacred wells to explore!
The most striking unholy well of all
Lismore residents have long benefited from the clean water that constantly flows from “The Spout”. This spring had a formal stone fence made by the local aristocracy in the 19th century.th Century, and the water gushes forth exuberantly. This spring has never been known to run dry and is a very practical and «non-sacred» well.
The 19th century bowl is surrounded by lush ferns. In hot summers, when other water sources dry up, farmers collect water for their animals here and people come to wash their cars. The extravagance of the flow is joyful and beneficial. My friends daughter calls it the “fountain of youth” because of this! It is believed that the Caño was the original well of San Cartago, which was diverted in the 19th century.th Century.
Decisions decisions.
“In a minute there is time for decisions and revisions that a minute will reverse” (TS Eliot). I was enjoying the Lismore wells and good company, while in the back of my mind I was pondering my next moves. Would you turn the album around and start a new side in Scotland? And if not that, then what? When I started my walk I only had a vague idea of what I could do if I took a boat to Scotland. There is a route, the path of San Niniano, but I had not explored its realities. He had started doing it in Lismore. San Niniano is a long-distance pilgrimage route and it turns out that it has very long stages. That can’t be my thing right now. Although I have maintained my stamina, I do not seem to be as physically “trainable” as I was in the past. Partly age, but also the medications I’m taking for cancer. Such long stages are ruled out. Closer examination of the map also showed that much of St Ninian’s follows a paved cycle route (painful on the limbs) and some stages appear to have no accommodation options at all. I played with the logistics in my head and, intermittently, on my phone. Another thing that worries me as I contemplate another trail is that the parts I have already done have started to merge in my mind. This didn’t seem right to me. The journey so far has been so satisfying that it has made me want to keep the details clear in my mind. I had to make a decision as I had a train booked back to Dublin in a couple of days. Still, the holy wells were distracting, in a good way.
An austere contrast.
Near the Caño, the sacred well of San Cartago is very different. The well is located in a deep hole, accessed by steps, surrounded by a stone wall and an iron gate. It has an air of severity and exclusion. It’s supposed to be good for eye aches and pains. This water source was formerly known as the Forge Well, but was dedicated to St. Carthage when its original well was moved to the Spout. Sacred wells often changed locations, especially if the original site was desecrated or disrespected in some way.
Saint Carthage of Lismore is also known by his ecclesiastical name of Saint Mochuda and lived in the 7th century.th century. After many difficulties, he eventually became the first abbot of a monastery in Lismore, which was also a seat of learning, with scholars coming from all over Europe. In fact, it is said that French was the most spoken language there. Little remains of the monastery now remain, except for an area known to be a cemetery. Lismore Cathedral is still dedicated to Saint Carthage.
Saint Declan, a man with a mission.
There were more wells to explore in the area, especially those relating to St Declan who was a very important figure in the early church here. There is a long-distance footpath that follows the route of its own pilgrimage between Cashel and the sea. We headed down a busy road and then took a small lane that wound through fields of well-fed cattle until we reached a small, secluded parking lot. My friends had passed the detour many times without going to see what the small sign that said “holy well” could reveal. There was more of a complex ritual than a simple well. There are monuments, including monuments to a man and his wife who had dedicated themselves to maintaining and beautifying the site. There was a preaching pulpit, a glass-fronted chapel, statues, and not one, but two wells. Cloth and ribbons were tied to the branches of the bushes that bordered the site.
I was intrigued by a sign that explained that one well was for drinking (an offer we did not accept) and the other, older one, hidden in a stone structure, was for bathing “sores.” The water from St. Declan’s Well is supposed to be good for curing skin diseases. The place had a curious mix of old and modern. The oldest pilgrim route approached the site along a deep, shady path, clearly used for centuries, and a turnstile guarded the entrance from that side. The bush fabrics also speak of ancient and widespread traditions. However, the way the wells were protected with relatively modern tiles and stones made it look quite contemporary and practical.
Saint Declan Coastal Foundation
My friends then took me to a place they were much more familiar with, in Ardmore on the south coast. While everyone remembers that Saint Patrick brought Christianity to Ireland (and got rid of all the snakes in the process!), it is sometimes forgotten that Saint Declan was in Ireland before Saint Patrick. Saint Declan is credited with converting the Deisi people of eastern Munster. Saint Declan himself was of royal descent and went to Rome to study and be ordained a priest. There were many links between Wales and this part of Ireland in the 6th century.th at 8th ages. The Irish raiders are said to have imported slaves from Wales, who were already Christians and may have influenced local beliefs. There is also a shared tradition of ancient “Ogham stones”, memorial stones with runic inscriptions.
Saint Declan arrived in Ardmore from Wales sometime between 350 AD and 400 AD. He accidentally left a bell, which was very valuable to him, and prayed that it would be kept safe. Miraculously, a rock with the bell appeared before their ship and Declan promised to build a monastery where the rock landed, as a way of giving thanks for this blessing. The rock ended up in what is now Ardmore and Declan kept his promise and built a monastery on the cliff above the beach. Even now there is a large rock on the beach, resting on two supporting rocks, with a hole underneath. It is believed to be St Declan’s stone. Pilgrims crawl through the hole below on the saint’s day, to try to cure themselves of illnesses such as arthritis, to obtain solace and spiritual benefits.
At the top of the cliff there is a very old well, next to a ruined chapel. It is located deep in a stone chamber and is cold and cool. The well chamber is angled and carved into the rock, with some small offerings visible deep inside. The carved figures, so worn and encrusted with moss and lichen, created a very special atmosphere.
Further up the cliffs are the ruins of St Declan’s church and the site of his now empty tomb. These are truly remarkable relics of 1600 years of history and faith. There were also some Ogham stones with ancient and difficult to decipher runic inscriptions.
My own path forward was becoming clearer. I felt a strong urge to return to Wales. Scotland needs a trip of its own and a lot more planning than I had. There are some wells on my way home that I long to visit. Passing along the North Wales coast would take me in a circle back towards my home. While my feet were still happy to travel, my heart was drawn back to family.
So, I booked my passage on a boat to Wales, landing at Caer Gybbi on Holy Island, a part of the island of Ynys Mon, also known as Anglesea.
This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any products or services you purchase using links in articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price they would otherwise pay, and their purchase helps support The Trek’s ongoing goal of bringing you quality backpacking information and advice. Thank you for your support!
For more information, visit the About page of this site.
