HHH CHAPTER 8: A walking saint, the birds, the bees and the butterflies


For the first time since I left Holywell, the sun shone all the time. Everything seemed to be in Technicolor: all the luminous greens, the azure sky, all the bright flowers.

San Tysilio is better

I started the day by climbing a hill outside Welshpool, in search of St Tysilio’s Well. He was educated in various religious establishments in the area and then wandered throughout North Wales and to the island of Anglesey, known in Welsh as Ynys Mon. He must have been a formidable and regular hiker. It has several wells dedicated to it. Finding today’s well required me to step over a pile of rotting grass clippings from a nearby house, push back a thorny branch of a holly tree, and pick my way through ivy and brambles.

It was a bit disappointing! There was water dripping slowly down a muddy canal. I didn’t feel like there was any healing power dripping with the water. It is quite surprising that it is still here, as Saint Tysilio lived in the 7th century. The first mention of this well in documents is apparently from the year 1202, making it one of the first recorded wells.

Wandering on a spring day

My route took me downhill and back to the canal bank.

The map showed several possible wells, of which no trace could be seen. I was happy with the wonderful spring flowers, the birds singing loudly and the warm sun. Part of the path had on one side the sound of the River Severn, rushing over beds of stone and gravel. On the other side of the canal there was silence and tranquility.

The swans that nest today had chosen a better position with the nest separated from the road (and passing dogs) by the water of the canal. While its mate patrolled, alert for possible threats, the swan was completely wrapped around itself and barely visible. I guess she was busy incubating her eggs. Later, a mallard with seven fluffy chicks swam by in formation and scurried through the reeds when I got too close. There were red and white tailed bumblebees enjoying the flowers and many restless butterflies with orange tips. They are small and never seem to rest on any flower for more than a moment. I was excited to see a small iridescent blue butterfly cross my path. It seemed as if a piece of the sky was flying by.

Joining a new marked path

The canal was completely silted up and I was now walking along the path of the River Severn, which follows the river from its source north at first, then east and south to the estuary in south Wales.

I paused to have a drink and draw the river. Drawing empties my mind. When the hand and the eye join, and when the attention is directed outward, my “I” disappears. I stopped to watch and listen to the birds in a small nature reserve. I could see small birds but not close enough to identify them. The binoculars are too heavy for this walk. However, the Merlin app told me their names (big thanks to Cornell for the fantastic work on this!). Sometimes there were up to 12 different songs at once.

I ended the day in Newtown (whose municipal charter was issued in 1279, so it’s not that new), in a calm and peaceful state of mind, full of gratitude for the beauties of the day.

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