Some days on the trail are the kind where we don’t do much more than put our heads down and walk. This was one of those types of days. Although we have adopted a good routine. We spent the morning split between Cody packing up camp and me heating up some coffee and preparing breakfast and snacks for the day. We started the descent quite early. 18 miles to walk and some steep climbs ahead meant we needed all the walking time the day allowed.
Walk with your head down
Maybe it was the fact that we missed the hike with Turkenna or maybe we both just needed a day to ourselves to get through the difficult miles. But we both found ourselves with headphones walking a considerable distance away. Never too far apart, but far enough that we can only see each other or talk when we find a good place to meet. Places with great views are good encounters.
The trail took us up to a ridge line that had a large rock outcropping in front of a low valley framed by lush green mountain scenery that continued as far as the eye could see in both directions. Cody suggested we take a break here. 
That turned into a nap in the sun on an open rock face. Sometimes the resting places are so good that you just have to stay a while and take a nap.
Bear or Cow?
After waking up, we continued along the high rocky ridge for a few more kilometers. Cody nearly jumped out of his shoes when he saw a large black furry animal just a few feet from the trail. It took him a few seconds to realize that it wasn’t actually a black bear but a cow. Not exactly the most common place to see a cow. Apparently a local farmer’s pasture extends up the mountain because we came across it at the foot of the mountain. He asked us if we had seen cows. «Yes sir, their whole herd is as tall as the mountain. We were really scared when we saw them!» We laughed a lot about it later.
Avoiding Noro
It was around that same time of day that FarOut informed us that we were passing through the Eastern Continental Divide. That’s the exact point where «the waters on the west side of Sinking Creek Mountain flow into the Mississippi River and the Gulf of Mexico, while the east side flows into the James River and the Atlantic Ocean.»
We also read on the app that the rumors about norovirus spreading on the trail were actually valid. Multiple comments about shelter sites in the area mentioned taking precautions due to the number of people who had contracted norovirus in the area. Although we ended our day at the Niday Shelter, we decided to sleep in our tent instead of the shelter as a precaution.
Starting the Virginia Triple Crown
The next morning we had ambitious expectations for the day. We were entering the ‘Virginia Triple Crown’ area and wanted to hike far enough to camp just below McAfee Knob. However, we needed to cover 22-23 miles that day for that to happen. The elevation gain didn’t look extreme on the FarOut app, but it doesn’t show the huge boulders and rock features we had to traverse near Dragon Tooth. So, with naively high expectations, we hit the road early to try to reach the Catawba Mountain Shelter.
We started the day by crossing Craig Creek. The bridge that used to be there was deemed unsafe to walk on, but luckily the water levels were low enough to rock across it. Then we made the steep climb to Brushy Mountain.
Rocky terrain towards Dragon’s Tooth
After just 11 miles I was already exhausted navigating the large boulders and rocky terrain. The muscles in my legs had started to shake and my shoulders ached from lifting myself over large rocks as we climbed the mountain towards Dragon Tooth. I decided to take a much needed break on the ledges just before Dragon Tooth. If we wanted to do the 22 miles a day, we didn’t have much time for breaks, especially since our normal pace of 2.5 miles per hour had slowed significantly as we maneuvered through the minefield of massive rocks. But before I even got to the first part of the Virginia Triple Crown, Dragon’s Tooth, I had to take a break. Luckily there was no shortage of beautiful excrements to rest on. I found a small ledge jutting out of the mountain and took a long rest.
700 Miles!
At some point during this climb, we realized we had passed the 700 mile mark. Unlike every hundred mile mark before this one, there was no mark for 700. 
There are no sticks laid out in the path, no rocks laid out in a formation of 700. So we take a moment to celebrate our accomplishments with a quick selfie and a high five. And following the path we continue walking.
dragon tooth
We knew we were getting closer to Dragon’s Tooth because we could hear the voices of a crowd of hikers getting louder. Rounding the last bend in the trail, we came to a clearing with people taking pictures, eating lunch, or warning children to be careful when climbing to the base of the tooth. 
Across the clearing were huge spiers of rock erected high above us. A brave teenager sitting on top of the tallest rock waved nervously to his friends. Eager to get a better look, we circled around the rocks and started climbing around the back. It was then that we realized what made this geological feature so special. Dragon’s Tooth sits on the edge of the mountain and from behind the views are some of the best we’ve seen so far. 
Not being brave enough to climb to the top ourselves, we marveled at the natural beauty around us while sitting a comfortable distance from the edge. How incredible!
Going down the tooth
If we thought the climb to Dragon’s Tooth was difficult, we were not prepared for what the descent had in store for us! In some places we had no choice but to use our butts to get down. 
The trail narrowed to 6 inches wide and rounded off steep rock walls. Other sections had us treading precariously on large rocks with worryingly large drops if we didn’t pass. My tired legs begged for mercy as we bent over and over, slowly descending. Eventually the trail leveled out and we found ourselves walking through a tunnel of blooming rhododendron flowers until the trail finally spit us out at a road junction.
Exhausted, hungry, thirsty and without water, we stood at the road junction trying to decide our next step. 
Do we walk another 6 miles to the shelter we initially planned to stay at? Shall we walk down the road to the supermarket and fill up with fuel before continuing to walk? Or do we head down the road in the opposite direction of the Four Pines Hostel hoping to find food and an empty bed? We choose the hostel.
We had to stop by the hostel anyway because we sent a resupply package there. It didn’t take much convincing to agree to spend the night once we arrived. «We’re making a spaghetti dinner with cake for dessert. Do you want to stay and join us?» Without hesitation, we both agreed!
Four Pines Hostel
Cody is more of a planner than I am. And staying at Four Pines was not how we had planned to spend the night, but I have never been more grateful for a change of plans! I don’t think I could have gone 6 more miles even if I had rolled down the trail! 
We sat down to enjoy a few drinks with some friends from the trail. It’s always good to shower and do laundry when we can. And of course we filled ourselves to the brim with an amazing home-cooked dinner! Donna and Quest were amazing hosts!
As we sat that night playing cards and swapping trail stories with other hikers, we expressed our excitement about seeing the other two features of Virginia’s Triple Crown. 
The most famous of the three, McAfee Knob, was next. Later that day, we could see Tinker Cliffs! Donna’s homemade cookies were the perfect way to end the night and helped us fall asleep.
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