The bear scare and the second arrow

Day five

We woke up in Low Gap ready for a ten mile day to Unicoi Gap to be transferred to our first lodge. The 12:30 pickup deadline had me moving faster than I thought possible. As we ran through a misty green landscape, Whack-a-mole said, «How’s Horsepower?» It took me a moment to realize he was knighting Sam with a trail name.

«I like it.»

So Sam became Horsepower that day and we moved on. We sang “The Climb” by Miley Cyrus as we climbed rocks, determined to make it to Unicoi on time. But Whack-a-mole stopped suddenly and picked up a note that had been crushed by a stone on the ground.

«This was fifteen minutes ago,» he said.

We put on brave faces and made as much noise as possible, singing “IT’S THE CLIMBBB” while banging our trekking poles and holding our heads high. After many minutes of this charade, I looked at my watch and read “5/2.”

«Today is May 2nd. Not the first.» I said. There was silence.

“Okay, good training exercises, friends!” said Whack a Mole. The tension eased. It was fun, but I thought about what I would have done if I had found that note on my own and how not funny it would have seemed at the time.

When we reached the trailhead, Horsepower decided to keep hiking and skip the lodge stay. We watched him drive away and finally got into our vehicle towards Hiawassee.

The hostel made me feel like a new person. A shower, laundry, and playing cards in the sun with an employee named Freight Train. Laura and I shared a cheese pizza and I even found a banjo to play. Laura promised to make a macaroni and cheese dinner as long as I serenaded her with the banjo while she cooked. I played “With a Little Help from My Friends” while they graciously washed the dishes. I felt at home. I spent some time on the porch with a man named Bob, who had his fair share of trail stories. Hearing many types of “I almost died” stories made my head start to spin a little. Why was he here again? Why don’t I choose comfort?

Day six

The next morning came quickly and we loaded up on pancakes before heading back to the trail around 9am. In the car with Whack-a-mole and Laura, I just broke down. It felt like setting off again for the first time and the overwhelming reality of walking alone was setting in. Laura was loose bagging a 17, Whack-a-mole planned for a 25 and Horsepower already had a lead. I wasn’t afraid to be alone, but the loneliness reminded me how daunting a hike was. Fortunately, I felt like I was with a brother and sister in the car as they encouraged me to stay strong.

Whack-a-mole saw a cat on the side of the road and said, «Cat, on the side of the road, Charlotte, look at the cat.» He knows me well. Laura convinced me with the Buddhist principle of the two arrows. Both arrows are coming at you, but if you don’t move after the first one, they will hit you again. Focus on one arrow at a time. The bad thing hasn’t happened yet.

Still, tears streamed down my face as Laura and Whack-a-mole left before me. Every time you say goodbye to someone, it may very well be the last time you see them. This is certainly true of all goodbyes, but on the road it is more noticeable and heartbreaking.

I walked alone for two and a half hours up a grueling climb, listening to music or an audiobook while sobbing at different intervals. Finally, I regained my spirits and reminded myself that I am on a mission to go to Maine and that I have to fight all the emotions to get there. It’s a noticeable difference to have a little help from your friends, but I signed up to hike to Maine alone.

Horsepower had texted me about a good view from a small side trail where they camped at mile 58.1. When I got there, I started down the side trail like he suggested and then came back. I need to add miles, I don’t have time for back trails. Then I paused. If you’re just here to rack up the miles, you might as well be on a treadmill. Go see the view! About halfway down the side road, I saw someone approaching.

«Sam!» I exclaimed. Despite my cool and independent attitude, seeing a familiar face is a unique feeling on the road. He took me to the magical view where he camped the night before and we looked at the sacred mountains while I told him about the wonders of civilization (aka the lodge). In return, he told me about his amazing experience camping alone and that it was exactly what he needed. The trail provides.

We hiked together the rest of the day: 14 miles to a small camp on Powell Mountain. We had dinner with a great view of the surrounding terrain and tried our hand at carving again while talking about religion, our upbringing, and other types of conversations that are had around the fire in good company. The next morning, we took our sleeping bags to the overlook and watched the sun rise through the trees while we ate breakfast. I like to ask what people think when they look at mountains. They almost always say they feel small and it’s never in a bad way. I was grateful to feel small that day.

Total AT miles traveled: 66.8

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