After learning the hard way that early May is still too early for the Japanese Alps, we were forced to change plans and find a more realistic hike in Japan. But we still wanted peaks, impressive ridges, cozy cabins, and a dash of Type 2 fun (spoiler: we got more than a dash).
Quick Facts: Yatsugatake Grand Traverse
Where: Accessible from Tokyo. Yamanashi and Nagano Prefecture, the city closest to the southern tip is Hokuto, the city closest to the northern tip is Chino
Length: 46 kilometers, 28.5 miles
Highest point: 2899 meters / 5411 feet
Duration: 3-4 days
Best time to walk: June to October (some of the cabins are open from April to November, but shoulder season requires full mountaineering equipment)
Difficulty: The trail was well marked and not difficult (but not easy) to find. With some exposed, climbed sections, recommended for experienced and fit hikers.
Replenishment of a Japanese convenience store
Is the wind chill of -17 degrees Celsius a warm welcome?
I only closed my eyes for a second – I swear – when I opened them again, suddenly a light illuminated the reddish fabric of the tent. Sunlight. I take my arm out from where they put it under the quilt as if it were a straitjacket: 04:50 am.
The first night at the Yatsugatake didn’t pass quickly, but it ended early. For a while, I just lie there and listen. There’s no sound besides Brian’s rhythmic breathing next to me. Finally, the storm has passed.
bear country in Japan
hitchhiking to the trailhead
They don’t have stairs that long on the AT.
The Yatsugatake Traverse ascends above treeline for a few miles on Day 1, rewarding sweat-soaked hikers with views of Mount Fuji-san after climbing Mount Amigasa. A side quest to fill up on water near the Seinen Goya Hut, and then we’ll tackle Mount Gongen.
“Where God resides”, according to our friends at Hokuto.
The descent towards our camp at the Kiretto shelter has a spicy surprise in store for us: a vertical ladder almost 7 feet long. The iron is rusted and the entire structure moves slightly with each carefully taken step. The wind pushes my backpack while my knuckles turn white from gripping the steel.
“Wow, this staircase is forever,” I shout against the wind without looking to where Brian is waiting for me. Because looking down seems like a terrible idea.
When we arrive at the rocky, sloping camp, it is not yet four in the afternoon. But the wind has chilled us to the bone, and there is no point in climbing the highest peak of the trek, Mount Aka-dake, tonight anyway. The cabin was locked, there was no winter room or facilities apart from some sad looking toilets (not suitable for sleeping, much to Brian’s disappointment).
I’m not afraid of heights, but this staircase was strange.
Temperature range: food bag pillow
“I’m going to get some big stones to secure the stakes,” he says and disappears into the pine trees. The camp is hidden in a pine forest under a gated Goya (cabin), and I’m a little wondering if the precautions are necessary. But he would soon find out.
He went from cold to cold quickly. Inside the tent, we put on all our clothes, leaving nothing but our food bags for pillows (also great protection from bugs). Hide water filters and electronic devices under our quilts. The heat will come; It just takes patience.
Knock, knock, knock, a few drops of rain fall on our tent. A gentle warning for what is to come.
spring poles
Then the wind picks up, which at first tugs furiously at our tent. “Oh,” I say, catching a glimpse of Brian, who is also bundled up in his quilt. I had tightened the guy ropes when I was outside brushing my teeth, but now I’m worried if they would hold.
The wind then pushes the tent, until the fabric is just inches from our faces. I’m surprised the poles don’t break.
“Uh-oh,” I say.
«I told you it would be windy.»
«You didn’t say THIS wind.»
“40 miles per hour or so”
Frozen walkers, frozen water
Temperatures drop rapidly. I put on the hood of my raincoat, which is already wrapped in a fleece hood I found a few days ago on a hike (the trail provides it). We both know very well that it will not be a cozy night while darkness surrounds us. But what can we do?
I drift in and out of sleep for hours and eventually I’m not cold anymore, but my friend still refuses to sleep. It’s not resting, it’s just enduring the night, waiting patiently for the sun to save us. I can hear Brian turning and turning next to me.
«Are you OK?»
«More or less»
«Yeah»
04:50 is too early. I close the quilt again.
I wake up to the sound of a zipper and an empty tent. 08:00, this is the longest I have ever slept on a hike.
The sun bothers us, but the air is still cold. We wrap our hands around hot little cups of instant coffee to thaw our aching bodies. This morning we found large chunks of ice in our water bottles. Hiking is a lot of fun.
frozen water bottles in the morning
Crampons and curry
At the crossing to the peak of Mount Aka, we ran into locals equipped with crampons, ice axes and helmets. What are we getting into? They point to our bare legs, we smile and nod. We don’t feel ill-prepared, but should we? A light layer of snow covers the climbing path to the top. But the sun quickly melts our cold hands.
At the top, the cabin is still closed at this point in the season. There is one on the chair below the peak serving curried udon noodles and green tea. for hungry hikers before tackling Yokodake next. After all, a walk between cabins is not so bad.
In early May there was still snow on the route, but it wasn’t the high, exposed ridges that caused problems. Often, on the descending sections towards the cabins, where the sun did not fully reach, the trail turned into a long snow slide. Not firm enough to step on, too rocky to slide. Just a mess of slipping, sliding and clinging to branches.
the “trail” – a snow slide
Mud Mountain Festival
At Kuroyuri Hut, the tent area looks like a muddy festival ground. There were a few pallets scattered around for campers to set up their tents. 2,500 yen for two people. I decide it’s not a good place for a tarp, and opt for cowgirl camping instead. However, the chair was low and moisture settled on my quilt. I wonder if there will be a layer of ice on top of me in the morning. Who knows. But for a few hours fatigue will win.
If you’re curious about my attempt at the Southern Alps traverse, read it here.
camping pallet
fight until Aka-Dake
Aka-Dake Peak!
