Via Francigena Torrenieri to Lake Bolsena – Goodbye Tuscany and hello Luzia

Wow, what a beautiful adventure this has been. I’m approaching Rome with less than 100 miles left. But let’s review last week on the Via Francigena VF. As much as I was hoping for a real training program for my next CDT attempt in June, this has been a much more liberating journey. No stress, no long kilometers and few climbs. Well, maybe more like a nick or divot in the road, every once in a while.

Torrenieri to Castiglione d’Orcia

I felt insulted when the weather gurus said it wouldn’t rain anymore. Today was a mix of on and off rain with the biggest problem of all: the dreaded road walks! The morning was still spent on a little-used paved county road. It was dotted with a few farms and some crazy locals out climbing the hill in the morning.

The first city is another ancient fortress built to defend anyone planning to capture a damsel in distress. Today that was me. Shelter me from the rain with a cappuccino, a cornetto and an apple, to balance everything.

With only ten miles to go, I hoped to reach Bagno Vignoni before the afternoon deluge. This was a stopover for Christians spreading the word at the beginning of our era. There is a modest church named after John the Baptist and some hot springs that were used for healing. It really is a reminder of the simple days gone by.

My last climb was off road and on muddy terrain, just what I was looking for after dodging cars, trucks and buses for the last 5 to 6 miles. Castiglione d’Orcia is one of the smallest and most picturesque towns I have ever visited. It has perhaps 50 to 75 residents. But many cats!

Castiglione d’Orcia to Radicofani

As my grandson Quin says, «best day ever.» The rain is gone and there is nothing but bluebirds and sunshine! It is curious that Italian birds sing the same songs as American birds. Who would have thought?

Today was like walking in a park. High ridge lines with stunning views of greener than green fields, vineyards, olive groves and sheep. There wasn’t much to talk about about cafes or bars, but there is an older Italian couple who installed the cutest espresso bar along the way! Any donation based on really good coffee. Sweet trail angels, indeed.

There are Agriturismos that are more like super-swanky farm B&Bs. As luck would have it, I got a luxurious room with a deep bathtub for two, a fireplace, and an unheard of king-size bed. On top of that, they have a farm-to-table dining experience that blew me away. Think Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood. It was so good!

Radicofani to Acquapentente

One of the long-lost arts of the West is herding. Maybe it’s where I live, but I rarely get the chance to see sheep grazing. In Tuscany it is still strong. As I walked up the trail, I heard what I thought were cow bells. To my surprise, there were no less than 150-200 sheep. They were guarded by working cattle dogs, a Pyrenean matriarch who appeared to be overseeing the operation. Much like a Caltrans supervisor. Sorry, but that’s not a truer statement! And Shepard was fast asleep in his truck. Thank God for dogs!

Another glorious day of hiking over more ridges before descending to the valley floor. About 2000 feet of elevation gain and you know what happens next. Yes, going back up. Today was the day I crossed from the Tuscany Region to the Luzia Region. More of that to come.

Acquapentente is a small medieval town built on a hill. Hmmm, there seem to be a lot of these in Italy. The most venerable characters I can think of are the townspeople. If you meet someone, chances are you’ll see them again. Either at the bar or the coffee shop, or you could just end up renting a room to his sister. Happened!

Acquapentente to Lake Bolsena

Leaving Tuscany and its beautiful vineyards and hills was replaced by fertile lands that produced most of the products for the Italians. There are endless fields of potatoes, peppers, eggplants, chickpeas and of course, olive orchards! The more I walked through this region, the more I appreciated those wonderful creamy yellow potatoes that I can’t get enough of. They are, without a doubt, the best potatoes I have ever tasted. It could be the pound of butter and rosemary they roast them with and the drizzle of olive oil that always accompanies them. Whatever they do to them, it’s absolute magic!

Bolsena is a lakeside town with immaculate streets lined with huge trees and perfectly clean streets. Ice cream parlors, excellent restaurants on the lake and tourist hotels abound. What impresses me is that they are quite affordable. For less than 100 euros you can get a nice room with views of the lake and breakfast included. That’s a bargain in my book.

Less than 100 miles from Rome

In less than a week I will go to St. Peter’s Basilica. It’s hard to believe that George and I are more than halfway through our training session. I’ve learned a lot about managing expectations. First of all, when it comes to another human being, like your spouse, the most important thing is to compromise! It can’t be a one-way show or you’ll do it alone. Now, sometimes there is nothing wrong with traveling alone. I walk alone most of the time. But when you invite someone else to join you for some fun, you need to be prepared for some major adjustments. This has been a great experience in every way, with many daily changes. And you know what, that’s fine. We’re here to finish strong, whether on the trail or riding the bus together. We have this!

This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any products or services you purchase using links in articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price they would otherwise pay, and their purchase helps support The Trek’s ongoing goal of bringing you quality backpacking information and advice. Thank you for your support!

For more information, visit the About page of this site.