Many lessons learned: the walk

I came to the PCT thinking I didn’t have much left to learn: about backpacking, about myself, and about others. It’s never pleasant to have to face the fact that you were wrong. It’s even more exhausting to have to learn lessons quickly and often. Although he is also physically exhausted and in a caloric deficit.

First lesson: communicate

I decided to leave Kennedy Meadows quickly. Or faster than most hikers, missing only a zero. I found the place not to be one hundred percent relaxing, largely because it didn’t have a real bed in a real building, and it was expensive. So when I heard that Mr. Clean was coming out the next day, I decided to join him and coincidentally, Yelnats and Emmitt were coming out at the same time.

I tried to have clear communication and a plan for the stage, but the guys seemed put off by that approach. In retrospect, I should have been a little more insistent about wanting a clearer plan, even if it was subject to change. Having an agreed upon plan would have been better than the vague 6 days that were presented to Bishop.

Second lesson: carry a bear canister

The morning departure passed quickly. I packed the backpack with the bear canister for the first time. I thought I did well seeing how all the gear fit inside the backpack with the Bear Vault centered on the backpack. My battery was still charging when it was time for the morning transfer.

After they dropped us off, we headed out as a group of four. Soon Mr. Clean and I realized how awkwardly we had packed the boats. Mr. Clean would end up doing what Emmitt and Yelnats did, which was leaving all the food in the loose backpack during the day and putting it in the bear canister at night, with an empty canister on top. I took a different approach and corrected my packing technique to place my tent between my back and the bear’s container. It took two iterations, but now I have a dead system.

Aside from the new packing system, we quickly discovered that we were no longer in the desert. Arriving at this beautiful and deep meadow. I have been enjoying the meadows and the pine forest. After swimming in a stream that pushed small flakes of gold downhill and enjoying the view of cliff sparrows feeding their young, we arrived at the first campsite.

Third lesson: read

The next day passed without problems. We started separately, since the day was very calm. Some ups and downs, some points of view. but nothing notable. I arrived at a great campsite to enjoy an epic sunset, and Yelnats arrived late after we were worried about him.

Emmitt came up with this plan to take a day trip to Cottonwood Lakes and back to shorten the days while exploring the Sierras. This was a good plan as we needed more time to adjust to the elevation and prepare for the climb up Mount Whitney. Jumping in Cottonwood’s five lakes also seemed like a challenge. It’s a little annoying to miss the ~5 miles of the PCT, but that’s okay – it’s something to come back for.

Well, I should have read his notes (Emmitt is under a vow of silence for the entire PCT), since he added more lakes for future days and had an extra day after Whitney. I didn’t understand why the extra day, but we postponed the discussion until after Whitney. Later that day, I had been reading FarOut’s notes on Forester Pass and realized that we would have to prepare the night before and that we couldn’t just delete the pass at any time.

Cliff Sparrows chicks in their nest

Fourth lesson: Deeper understanding of myself

It’s interesting how much time you spend with yourself and how much you don’t know about yourself. I have realized that I enjoy small views more than large ones. The panoramic views of the valleys are great, but I prefer small meadows with curving rivers more. Maybe it has to do with my claustrophilia.

So, although I am not enjoying the Sierra, I am not convinced that this is a paradise like others are. The Sierra, while excellent, I don’t think it particularly lives up to the hype. I was half awake thinking this. I don’t seem to find this place to be as holy as others have advertised and are experiencing.

But it’s fun to see new terrain: the lush meadows with muddy soil and short grass. The pine forests without undergrowth. Rocky slopes of mountains with panoramic views and snow-covered crevices. Although there is less variety of life here than in the desert, it is fun to see the marmots.

yellow-bellied marmot

Fifth Lesson: Altitude and Attitude

The next day, I woke up to find that Yelnats had vomited. This was in addition to other previous symptoms he had had, which led us to believe he was suffering from altitude sickness. We gave him some extra food he could handle and carried some of his heavier items.

Once we got over the first climb and went down again we gave him his equipment back. But soon after we came to a turnoff toward Soldier Lake. I didn’t want to go, making it clear that my appetite for more lakes was gone, but the others did and I reluctantly obeyed.

Cottonwood Lake #3

However, on the walk up the side trail, Mr. Clean turned to me and said, «If you need to go the miles to Crabtree, you should go, there are no fords from here to Crabtree.» I asked her if she was being a Debbie Downer and she said that’s why she told me to keep moving. I didn’t follow the advice right away, but after following it, I did.

There were indeed some fords, but nothing bad, and it was what I needed. Being hungry, physically exhausted, and mentally tense from all the changes to what I had considered the plan left me with an attitude. When they reached Crabtree I was glad to see them again, and they were glad to see me in a better mood. We planned to start at 3:30am towards Whitney the next day. Yelnats was feeling well enough to give it a try, but we agreed to keep our eyes on him.

A log across an otherwise wet ford

The top of the World continental United States

We started closer to 4 than planned. We were joined by Dong, who had no crew. The night sky with the snow capped mountain peaks was beautiful to start the hike. With the slow glow of the Alps filling the air, the view got better and better as we climbed.

The snow patches were nothing to how well the boot pack was through them. The trail was very well maintained on a gradual slope. We had no problems getting up or down. I suffered a little abdominal pain, but a short 10-minute rest prevented it from getting worse. I’m glad I have friends who would wait with me to recover.

Lesson Six: Ask for more details

Before returning to Crabtree, a couple asked me while walking to put their sleeping bags in the bear box as they had left them hanging to dry. Seeing how there is a storm every day at 4 in the afternoon since we entered the Sierra, it made sense. I agreed – how many times in life does an NPC give you a side quest?

Once back at camp, I started searching for this bear box and hanging clothes after getting set up again. It was 3:30 and from the look of the clouds I knew I didn’t have much time left. I didn’t see it where most people were camped. Based on FarOut, there was a bear crate a little further up the trail, so I started sprinting down the trail.

Sierra Nevada Sky Pilot

I passed hikers I knew saying “sorry man on a mission” as I ran past. I don’t know how I moved so fast after being hungry and exhausted the day before, but I felt great. Better than great, I felt like I was running faster than I had in a long time.

Well, their camp was over a mile from mine, but I gave my word, so I was going to look everywhere no matter what. I had to ford a river again (once each way) to get to their camp, but I managed to get their sleeping bags into the bear box before the rain hit.

And the rain came. When I got back to my camp, it was hailing and raining. Only for an hour, and by that time much of the bubble he was leading was arriving at camp for their Whitney attempts. It was fun catching up with everyone.

Seventh lesson: It’s okay to take it easy

tThe next day I woke up at my usual time, which bothered me since I was planning to sleep in. But I packed anyway, except I had hours to do every task I could imagine. I stretched, used the toilet, patrolled the campground for trash, started every city chore I could. Then around 10 we headed out for our short day to prepare for Forester Pass the next.

Nothing much happened, we didn’t have to travel many kilometers. But around the last trees before the climb to the Forester, I stayed with the Orange Men who were camping nearby, and the rest of the team headed to Lake South America. My reason for not adding six miles round trip was to conserve energy. I’m glad I did it because it was a much-needed break.

The next day, I met up with the team at 6 and we began our climb to the Forester. The reason we prepared for Forester was that it was the highest point on the PCT and we wanted the morning snowpack to rise and fall. The night snow cover is too slushy.

a snow bridge

It wasn’t difficult to promote Forester. There were many patches of snow, but all very worn in the boot prints and not far from the rocks. I had to cross a snow bridge, but everything was up to par. A small patch of snow was somewhat exposed, but nothing scary.

It was after sliding down the north side that I felt like I needed my micro spikes. It was a layer of snow with serious consequences if it fell. A long layer of snow that quickly turns slushy. But we worked as a group and we felt good in the boottrack trenches. It was very necessary to take the day to prepare.

Last Boottrack before Forester Pass

Eighth lesson: Not everything is equal

Forester had marked the boundary of Kings Canyon National Park, but it really felt different once we reached the tree line again. There is a greater variety of life here than in Sequoia National Park.

But we were missing Yelnats and Emmitt, who ran away to some lakes to make snowmen. After waiting two hours at the ford for the day, I decided to continue and do a little more to the last exit point towards Kearsarge Pass. This way no matter how I get back in, I will have done the entire red line up to that point.

Foxtail Pine

Even after returning to the first exit point, Yelnats and Emmitt still had not arrived. He went to bed, woke up and left before their arrival. He waited for Yelnats’s parents in Onion Valley, but Yelnats arrived at the same time as his parents. We quickly arrived in Bishop, and there his parents cooked us dinner, got us a room in the lodge for two nights, and played some games of cards with us.

Well, that’s a long update, but I’m doing laundry and thinking of ways to pay Yelnats’ parents. ‘To Mammoth. Emmitt has shaken his head about downloading Pokémon Go again.

Me, Emmitt and Yelnats