Camino de Santiago: A Hike Or A Pilgrimage?

A different path

What is the difference between a walk and a pilgrimage? Walking seems to be a more modern term for long-distance travel on foot. The word pilgrimage is ancient. As early as the 9th century, people traveled to Santiago de España to visit the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, where the relics of Santiago are located. The peregrinatio became one of the most important Christian pilgrimages in medieval Europe. And it continued to grow over the centuries, also incorporating centuries-old traditions. In 2025, more than half a million pilgrims entered Santiago and received their Compostela. There are a lot of people and a lot of walking. What then is the difference between a walk and a pilgrimage? I don’t know.

I’m ready. I’ve been fine-tuning and questioning my gear for a few weeks now. This isn’t my first rodeo, but it kind of is. On my other hiking trips I carried a large backpack containing a tent, a sleeping system, cooking equipment, a water filtration system, a four-day supply of food, and anything else that might be needed in the remote countryside, where a town might be 50 to 90 miles away. I have my equipment prepared for those types of adventures. This trip is different. I’m attempting the classic or traditional route, the 500-mile French Way. The longest stretch between towns is 10 miles. And there’s a food truck parked halfway. Most days, there are towns every few kilometers. Every night there are shower, bed, laundry and food options. It is not necessary to carry all your things on your back on the Camino. Good for that, but I’m still deciding what to bring. Deodorant, makeup, a hairbrush, a nice shirt, a razor, a pillowcase? None of these things are necessary or important in the wild, natural mountains, but should you take them on this decidedly more civilized ride from town to town?

It’s not a child’s game

I remind myself that it is a pilgrimage and not a walk. Last week it snowed on people crossing the stretch of the Pyrenees and this week 85-degree temperatures burned walkers on the treeless stretch of the Meseta. The road is mostly dirt, but there is pavement, farmland, gravel, mud, and some rocks to navigate. There will be challenges. My backpack only weighs 12 pounds, but I will carry it 10 to 15 miles a day, every day. The backpackers reading this are now laughing in my face. The average pack weight on the Big 3 (AT, PCT, CDT) is 25 pounds and the average daily mileage is 22. The average elevation gain per day is crazy, something like 6000 feet. One day. I’m not sure, but after the Pyrenees I think we can gain less than 500 feet per day on the French. So maybe the Camino will be a piece of cake?

Back with my hiking partner.

Ed and I will meet at the airport in Charlotte, North Carolina, on Sunday to fly to Madrid. From there we will take a domestic flight to Pamplona, ​​spend the night and then cross the border by bus to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, where we will rest and begin our trip the next day. I know this hike has been on Ed’s list for a long time and it is my honor and pleasure to join him. I had my sights set on attempting the Tour du Mont Blanc this year, but the logistics and costs were a nightmare.

Ed and I met in 2016 on the Appalachian Trail and have hiked together on and off ever since. We keep each other company and get away from many problems. This may or may not be the last time we embark on a long walk together. I know it will have spiritual, social, personal and emotional meanings for both of us. In this time of turmoil in our country, I hope for a break (even if it takes a lot of effort, lol). We will meet other pilgrims from different countries, cultures and religions. We will share meals, shelter and stories. A walk or a pilgrimage? I can’t wait to find out!

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