Day 27: To Agua Dulce – Messenger Flats to Serenity Oasis – 450 miles

Miles traveled: 24.3

Mile marker: 454.7

I thought the desert was supposed to be hot. But here I am, shivering to the bone as the damp cold penetrates my layers. My fingers burn with cold on this slightly windy morning. I should have packed my rain pants and gloves. I envy those around me who have them.

We are surrounded by a cloud. This explains why my sleeping bag was wet this morning.

We said we’re leaving at 6:30. I have packed most of my bag. When I woke up this morning, I grabbed my day clothes and stuffed them into the bottom of my sleeping bag. My water filter is already there; If the water filter gets too cold and freezes, it will break the threads on the filter and therefore damage the threads inside. Most of my bag is packed when I step out of my tent into the light breeze.

God, this is so cold.

Dad mixes his hot chocolate and coffee drink while I finish packing my suitcase. It is now light as we, among other hikers, prepare for the day. The toilet is much better than the smelly one at little Jimmy’s camp. It’s warm, there’s toilet paper and hand sanitizer, and it doesn’t smell that bad!

Bumper and Lucie take shelter under the roof of the outhouse as we all pass by them. Lucie joins us as we walk towards the trail, but Bumper is still packing. We don’t realize this as we cross the dirt road and return to the trail.

Yesterday, Savannah, Lucie and I went through the difficult brush. Oops.

I was hoping to warm up in the first few minutes of the hike. I have my hands in my pockets while I walk and sometimes jog to keep up with Dad. Its pace is very fast. We walked along an easy path, going up and down and occasionally avoiding a large rock.

The sun shines, but it is not above us. The clouds hang low in the sky.

“Where is Bumper?” Dad asks.

“It wasn’t ready when we left,” Lucie responds.

“We said 6:30!” Dad says.

We are all stopped on a ledge, looking at the clouds hanging in front of us. The sun peeks out from behind a cloud.

“Sunshine, glorious sunshine!” Dad sings.

You are right.

He extends his hands toward the sun and Lucie and I do the same.

The sun feels like standing in front of a cozy fireplace after being outside in a hail storm. The heat floods me wherever the sun touches.

One moment it is here and the next it is gone.

Bumper rounds the corner with a big smile on his face and the camera rolling. He’s a vlogger, so I call him my twin because we both wear blue, have the same hair, and share our PCT stories online.

We continue forward. Through the view of the trees you see hills and valleys, and the sun catches every crack and crevice of them. The clouds close to us are opaque and ghostly, while those far away are solid and defined.

It’s hotter now. We stop next to a rock to slow us down. Lucie flies by while talking to her family on the phone. That girl always has service.

I’m walking alone for a while, something I’ve been doing more of late as I think a lot about the freedom I have in life to do what I want. Not everyone has that. I’ve learned many things over the past few years living in North Carolina, and one of them was freeing myself from the need for praise to succeed.

I grab the others and walk with them for a few minutes.

«Dad was here!» I said, pointing to a giant smiley face written in the white sand.

A few minutes later and we are at our next water source. We looked on our app and decided we should get water here for the next 14.5 miles, which will take us to our campsite.

We take off our backpacks and drink some water.

The bumper is located on the edge of Rafiki’s mat.

«You look like the sleigh!» Lucie says. I guess we’re just practicing. It refers to our image of what we will do if we contract Norovirus.

Lucie begins to put on her backpack. «I need to keep moving before I get sleepy.»

So true. We all do the same and move forward for the next few kilometers. It’s hotter, windy and a lot of downhill. My knees hurt as I make the descent.

I see a small town and wonder if that’s where we’re going. It looks magical! On the other hand, civilization exerts a special spell on me.

We went down several curves. We finally reach a small shelter where Dad takes a nap on a wall with his feet propped up on the post.

«How long have you been here?» asked.

«About an hour and forty. I was pushing it to see how fast it could go. Glad to see I still have it!»

It’s very fast.

Here I eat a bagel with chicken and cheese salad, a snickers bar, and try to top my cheezits. It is windy and sometimes cold. I leave my sleeping bag and shirt to dry. Before I know it, we are back on our feet and moving forward. Only ten miles left!

We crossed some train tracks and walked towards the trail. It is white and the grass around us is straw colored. It’s different from the bushes we had to go through today.

There is a bush that is so vibrantly green that it contrasts with the dull colors of the landscape. There are piles of gray, stringy grass everywhere.

I follow the crew down and we find a cave. It’s not that exciting, but it’s a good refuge if you need it! Now go back down the giant hill that looks like a slide.

White fluffy clouds spread over a giant layer of sandy hills. I pass several plants where flowers the color of highlighter yellow bloom on what looks like green licorice. These other delicate flowers which are the most precious deep pink and light pink are everywhere around us.

Rafiki catches up to me and I see a bush with green feather fluff flowers. I look up and there’s a wind tunnel! It is decorated with graffiti. The center is curved and full of water, so I walk towards the edge. As we go deeper, it gets darker. I feel like I’m carrying those drunk glasses! It’s like an optical illusion here and I can’t walk straight!

We walked a little further before reaching the incredible rocks. They are covered with different types of rocks and last quite a long time. Apparently part of Star Wars was filmed here.

With Rafiki and Dad ahead, Savannah, Bumper, and I wander through what seems like a very public park. There are signs posted everywhere to keep you on the path. It feels very strange to go through something so accessible.

Finally we reached a road. We walk what seems like miles (just one) before arriving at a grocery store. We eat tacos. I’m so mad because I tear up my dinner only to find out later that there’s a toppings bar! I may come back tomorrow.

I get a dry Bimbo sponge cake. I need to get better at choosing snacks.

We walked to the campsite. We all laugh at how dirty my hands are. Why are no one else’s hands black like mine?

We set up tents. Rafiki ruins his bets because the ground is too hard. It’s like trying to stick a toothpick into a rock.

We set up our tents and Farmer John, who runs this place, sets aside some items to purchase for Savannah and me.

I smell so bad I can’t wait to shower tomorrow. I’m ready for this zero!