Days 56-59: Rest, Recovery and Onward to Yosemite

General Trail Thoughts:

The day I arrived at Mammoth was Nero (Near Zero) and after a Zero day I left Mammoth on another Nero day. As I walked into the country, I reflected on the dark clouds before me. I was glad they weren’t on top of me, and I was doubly glad when I heard thunder in the distance.

That led me to more thoughts of appreciation and gratitude. Starting with my wife for supporting this trip and accompanying me in so many places. Other thoughts included the weather that could have been much worse, friends texting me support including a video of a friend showing me his backyard, trail angels, and of course the homebrew club and their contribution to trail beers. I really appreciate the support I have received and the luck that has befallen me.

Day 56: Zero at Mammoth

Mammoth is a great town and I have been to many times. Now though I was here to resupply, eat and recover. Mammoth Mountaineering Supply replaced the tips on my trekking poles and I purchased dinners for the portion of the Sonora Pass to Lake Tahoe. The Looney Bean provided frozen mochas and breakfast. We ate, washed clothes, and took off my permethrin sweatshirt to at least keep the mosquitoes off my upper body. Overall, a relaxing time.

Day 57: Leaving Mammoth

15 miles or so

From Horseshoe Lake Trailhead elev 9550

Two mile marker 918 student 9186

Camping: Solo

People I walked with: no one

The day started with a hike to Lake McCloud with Marnie and Kea. There we split up and I headed towards Devils Postpile. Over twenty years ago Marnie and I visited this area and it was nice to see it after so long. This was an easy hike after a zero day. I crossed several streams and some nice bridges over rivers. That night I had an epic view of Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort from an angle I had never seen before.

Mammoth Mountain from a different angle

Day 58: Donahue Pass and Yosemite

16 miles or so

From mile marker 918 elev 9186

Two mile markers 934 student 8990

Camping: Solo

People I walked with: no one

The morning was a typical morning, cool and with some mosquitoes, but it soon became unique. As I was digging my cat burrow in the morning, I heard a hum like horses galloping in the distance. I thought it was strange and stopped my research. The sound was getting louder and louder and I turned to see a young deer 5 feet away running at full speed. The deer had all awkward angles as it turned in an instant to avoid me. I let out a scream. I remember the panicked look in his big eyes, his legs contorted, his body tilted at a seemingly impossible angle, and then he was gone in an instant. I heard a noise in the other direction and saw the mother walking away.

Today I would pass Thousand Island Lake, go over Donahue Pass and enter Yosemite National Park. The trail was nice and I saw a Sooty Grouse, at least that’s what the iSeek app called it.

My first sighting of a sooty grouse

Thousand Island Lake came into view and it was magnificent. There were dozens of trout rising and I stopped fishing because I knew I would be camping next to a river tonight. Hmmm, this could be an example of a fish in hand being worth more than 2 in the river.

My first view of Thousand Island Lake.

Some of the islands in the lake.

The trail to Donahue Pass went quickly with typical stream crossings, climbs and descents. Arriving at the access to the pass, it seemed pretty easy with patches of snow, rocks, and lots of water flowing down the trail.

The approach to Donahue Pass

In my opinion, Donahue Pass is the last of the “Sierra Passes,” although there will be more passes to come before you are officially out of the Sierra Nevada and into the Cascades.

This is the entrance to Yosemite and after crossing the snow field on the north side of the pass I saw the difference on a steep section of the trail.

Yosemite’s steep trails had «cobblestone» surfaces

That night I camped along the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River. I set up camp and quickly pulled out my new tenkara rod and headed to the river. My second dry fly cast landed a small brown trout and then nothing. I was able to see many larger trout, but they were all feeding near the bottom of the river. I guess I should have brought some nymph flies.

Day 59: Tuolumne Meadows

9 miles or so

From mile marker 934 elev 8990

Two mile markers 943 student 8599

Camping: Solo

People I walked with: no one

The morning was cold, a cold I hadn’t felt since Crabtree Meadows above 10,000 feet. Later Mother Duck commented the same and suggested that it was due to the high humidity. I think she was onto something there. The sun finally made its way down the mountainside and onto the trail and warmed my numb fingers. I was pleased by the site of a lone deer in a meadow and enjoyed watching it jump as it walked away.

An authentic Yosemite deer

Yosemite has a no camping policy within 4 miles of trails south and 5 miles of trails north of the road and river. However, they carefully set up camp adjacent to the Tuolumne River. I walked through the beautiful, gated campground to the building that contains the general store, post office, and grill. There I saw the faces of some familiar hikers resupplying, eating, and hanging out.

I was a little early for my meeting with Marnie, so I got a breakfast burrito and then a $6 Starbucks bottled mocha at the store. Both were tasty. Marnie and Kea appeared much to the joy of the hikers. Everyone loves petting Kea as a substitute for the puppy they left behind. Everyone is also very happy to see the cooler with sodas and beer that Marnie brings.

PCT hikers at the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office

A special note should be added about Post Maestro Michael at the post office. He is a great human being who works hard to get supplies to hikers and does it with humor and efficiency. I saw him stay late when a hiker showed up just as I was closing. Good man!

That night, Marnie and I stayed outside the park, at the Tioga Lake campground. The next day, Marnie would leave me for a few days’ trip to Sonora Pass and the dangerous snowfield crossings at 10,800 feet.

This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any products or services you purchase using links in articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price they would otherwise pay, and their purchase helps support The Trek’s ongoing goal of bringing you quality backpacking information and advice. Thank you for your support!

For more information, visit the About page of this site.