FIFA World Cup Diary: From Dallas nights to a crazy drive through Manhattan

The middle part of the World Cup was spent in Dallas, in the cowboy belt of North Texas. It’s not the Wild West like we grew up watching American westerns. Historic downtown Dallas and the Design District have seen massive economic investment in recent years, turning old, run-down neighborhoods into relaxed hubs with rooftop restaurants and a few rowdy Irish bars.

For a week, the city was owned by Argentinians as the team played back-to-back matches against Austria and Jordan. You met South Americans at every bar and every 7-Eleven. The city had learned from its mistake after the English fans had dried up following their team’s victory over Croatia. At each pub, hundreds of barrels were set up outside, taking over the sidewalks, much like the hawkers of Calcutta or Mumbai.

Staying at the Magnolia Hotel, built in 1922 as the Magnolia Petroleum Building, was convenient. This 29-story Beaux-Arts skyscraper was the tallest building in Texas for decades and is famously topped by the iconic 40-foot-tall neon Pegasus. More importantly, it was a minute’s walk from the central plaza and media wall of the AT&T Discovery District, which became the site of impromptu viewing parties for games involving Mexico, Argentina and the United States. Lawn chairs and picnic mats took over the square as families made an evening of it, with the margaritas and food flowing as freely as the goals of this World Cup.

But the proximity ensured that there would be no early nights and no sleep at all until 2am, when the square was finally cleared.

The energy and excitement prevented the circadian cycle from adapting to the changing time zones, from India to the East Coast and then Central Time. That’s why making the early morning trip to Houston for Brazil’s round of 16 match against Japan was a nightmare, or a morning mare. The bus to NASA land was scheduled to leave at 6 a.m. and the alarm was set for 5 a.m. to reach the destination on time. But sleep came late, and when you woke up at half past five, you felt blessed that you had another thirty minutes of rest for the tired body, and you immediately fell asleep. You slept through the alarm. When your eyes opened again, the clock said 6:03, and the buses here, at least in Dallas, run right on time. Frantic phone calls caused the ticket to be changed to the 7am service, and you rushed through half the morning chores to get there in the nick of time.

The Japanese, despite taking an early lead, failed to maintain it and conceded late to hand the tie to the Selecao. The return was more enjoyable, albeit long, as a few old friends and a new one offered a ride back in their car.

Another early morning flight followed shortly after as you headed to Philadelphia, birthplace of the American Declaration of Independence, for the 4th of July and France versus Paraguay.

The city, the most beautiful in the US yet, was baking in sweltering heat, but the enthusiasm and pageantry were still high. However, the match in the open stadium was a scrappy affair, with Paraguay more interested in getting under the French’s skin than playing football. The trick almost worked and it was only a late penalty from Kylian Mbappé that broke the deadlock.

After the game, rain and thunderstorms followed, and with it the plan to watch the fireworks. A few more pints of craft beer and the famous Philly steak at the cash-only Oscar’s Tavern were the only solace during an otherwise hot and humid celebration of America’s 250th year of independence.

However, the bus tragedy continued. Early the next morning, the bus to New York, where you were headed to Brazil-Norway, was nowhere to be seen at the stop next to Chinatown. A quick check by the conductor revealed that the sleep-deprived ghost had booked the bus for July 6 and not the 5.

All buses seemed full and the chances of making it to the game seemed slim. But just then, Wanda Bus miraculously appeared, with a bus to New York leaving in 15 minutes and a ticket for just $25.

You reached New York a few hours late and made a frantic drive through busy Manhattan with your suitcase to get to the hotel, drop off your luggage and catch the last media shuttle to New Jersey. The Brazilians were eliminated and the suitcases were packed for the next destination to discover the fate of the other South American country.

Published on July 7, 2026