Day 16: Winding staircase to Wayah Bald shelter
Free shuttle at 9.30am Long, steady climbs to Siler and Wayah Bald. Incredible panoramic view from Wayah. It’s always very inspiring to see where you come from. Light rain all day, good miles per hour
Day 17 Wayah Calvo to Wesser Refuge
Leaving a little early, downhill and then up Copper Ridge Bald.
The rain started around 9:15 a.m. later in Gap. It was drizzling all day and there were no storms. The firm Wesser did not come into view, so we skipped the tower. A heavy downpour shortly after arrival, many people arrived very muddy and wet. My lower half was quite wet as the waterproof skirt finally got wet from the capillary of the backpack cover getting into my skirt, shorts and underwear. I ate two bowls of ramen and then ramen.
Day 18 Wesser to Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) then to Sassafras Gap Shelter
Long descent towards NOC, we started above the clouds and descended.
The view in the Jumpoff was obscured but still a little disconcerting, although I remembered seeing a sharp, distinctive turn in the posts. A few laps into the jump, the bottom half of my stick broke right under the prop and became super flexible and useless. AUGH!!!!
Having finally arrived at the NOC, Zuko got his food resupply box, but mine was missing. I was able to confirm through tracking and the pictures I took of the box addresses that it had the correct address and that it arrived. A second look found my box with the name «April», the month I received it, which was strange, since my name was first on the address. Crisis averted. With a huge rush of adrenaline and anxiety coursing through my system, I managed to grab a carabiner and some duct tape to possibly fix my pole. One of the employees said that there are a pair of pink hiking poles in the trash can across the street at check-in. They’ve been there since last night. The path provides, and today it was almost instantaneous.
I grabbed one and walked across the bridge to grab some food and drink. With a double burger, Coke, and unsweetened tea (that’s allowed here in the South, wow, I’m surprised), I became less restless and proceeded to lay out my wet clothes and unpack my food resupply, when someone now named Sweet Tea (Charlene) and Remi should show up. We unloaded some food for him to use in the magical hiker bags he had while supporting Ed.
We managed to leave after an hour and a half at 130 pm with food and housework during the long climb, the next shelter is about six miles up. We may have to disperse the camp. Well, around 7:40 pm, not finding any good spots, we entered the shelter.
Many people we knew passed us as we climbed the hill and, awaiting our arrival, applauded us heartily. Dinner took place before sunset and I occupied myself with household chores until I finally crawled into bed around ten o’clock at night. Long day, but worth the effort.
Day 19 Sassafras to Brown Fork Shelter
First up to Cheoah Bald. Great view. The pace is slow today. The legs don’t really respond.
It’s a tough bus day. At Stecoah Gap, road construction and the eventual overpass of the Appalachian Trail was evident.
And so were Sweet Tea, Ed and Remi. We decided to try a brownie melt dessert that I had put in my hiker bag because the container was too big for my bear canister.
Well, I’m glad I didn’t take it uphill, as the heating pack seemed to be faulty and didn’t really heat except in a small corner, and seemed to dampen the entire exterior. We opened the contents and tried to eat the brownie mix with spoons, but it really wasn’t worth it, so it went in the bear-proof trash can. A failure all around. The struggle on the bus continued, thinking «this mountain doesn’t play» as I trudged up the last one to Brown Fork Gap Shelter. Afterwards, looking at the AT guide, we had been climbing “Jacob’s Ladder”. Housework was slow and methodical. While Zuko went to get water, I leaned against the wall and inflated my air mattress. When he came back, he asked me if I was okay. Knowing her experience as a nurse, I responded, «I am. Just exhausted.» No need for intervention, just slow as molasses. She offered to bring me water, but I wanted to rinse my face and legs and just relax for a bit by the stream that ran down the ravine.
Day 20 Brown Fork to Fontana Hilton, or how Splinter gets its name.
507 am Wake up to heavy rain and thunder. Suddenly a big crash nearby, with a white flash and instant thunder, I screamed, but everyone in the shelter said they didn’t hear me because of the crash. The heavy rain and noise continued as we packed up and waited for the lightning to subside, giving way to light rain around 9am. As the people left the shelter, on the other side of the stream, a tree was hit and human-sized splinters were thrown everywhere.
One of the lower platforms of the store was very close to some of the shrapnel, about 50-75 feet away. The hiker now known as “Splinter” said he saw white and then red. Very lucky.
The rain gave way to sun, I felt like the hill after the Cabin Gap shelter, I made good time.
We made the long descent to Fontana, the temperature and humidity rising as we descended into a Dantesque swamp. I had enough fuel to finish the ramen. Sweet! Resupply box tomorrow and print the Smokies permit. At the Fontana “Hilton” shelter there was a rechargeable water filter, as well as running water and a shower slightly uphill.
We made the long descent to Fontana, the temperature and humidity rising as we descended into a Dantesque swamp. I had enough fuel to finish the ramen. Sweet! Resupply box tomorrow and print the Smokies permit. At the Fontana “Hilton” shelter there was a rechargeable water filter, as well as running water and a shower slightly uphill.
I took a bird bath because I didn’t have a towel and all our clothes are disgusting. Zuko called the Fontana resort and we got a room for one night, with a big discount for hikers, the receptionist recognized the names since we have resupply boxes there. It’s probably a good idea, since tonight I introduced myself as «Zuko» while watching her. Maybe he needs a nap.
Day 21 and 22 The Fontana Resort Time Vortex
I slept until 6:30 am. Took the shuttle to the general store. I checked in early and took everything out of the package. I went back to do the laundry, I needed to get soaps and shampoos for the room. Even though clothes are washed with a double dose of detergent, if we think it’s bad, it’s probably really bad. Now we sorted the resupply boxes and didn’t give too much to the hiker box. I had to buy a Smokey Bear t-shirt, since this excellent establishment does not have loaner clothes. It has fuel, hooray and lots of stickers. I have a reusable bag to hold my container so I can use the cable system with the bag holding the container. Zuko has a bag of food in his largest container, so it’s ready.
I had a second wind after a shower and then we had lunch (ice cream). Dinner was a pastrami sandwich and I ate a little later in the room. He is not yet fully human. Zuko said early that if the room was available, we would stay one more day. Is! There is a Mini Cooper event coming up in the next few days. They are traveling different paths including that of the Tail of the Dragon.
Second zero. I woke up at 730. I started blogging and vlogging. It took hours. I’m not doing this for a living. Breakfast consisted of omelette and chopped root vegetables. So incredibly tasty. Dinner consisted of all you can eat pasta, and the first portion was so generous that I couldn’t finish it all.
We had lunch, sandwiches and stuff, not a real lunch, like the day before when we had ice cream.
Today I felt human, I called my mom and Bob from the porch overlooking the mountains. There is a fantastic 18-hole disc golf course. BYO discs, they have loans, but those discs don’t even have markings, just colors that indicate whether they are a driver, approach or putter. I guess I’ll have to come back here. OH DAMN.
