From Lordsburg to Pie Town: Setbacks, river crossings and making friends on the CDT

It’s been a second since I was able to post an update, but I’ve been busy wandering north through the CDT, where cell service and free time can be at a premium! So today I’ll try to cover the trip from Lordsburg at mile 85.5 to Pie Town at mile 337.1.

First, I should start by saying that I suffered a couple of setbacks in Silver City, New Mexico. I got a little sick in Silver City shortly after arriving in town for Trail Days, so unfortunately I don’t have much to report on that. Second, my phone was also lost there and I’m still working on recovering photos from Lordsburg to Silver City. What I can tell you is that that stretch of trail was hot and relatively waterless. I think we CDT hikers are a little spoiled by the water tanks in the first section, only to have our training wheels ripped off from Lordsburg to the north. I find myself constantly looking for when the next viable water will be. Feedback on water sources on the FarOut app from other hikers is helpful, but not always 100% reliable, so I tend to err on the side of caution and pack a little more than I might need for an upcoming trek.

Despite losing almost a week (yes, a week!) in Silver City, being sick, and losing my phone, I want to call attention to the incredible kindness and generosity that was shown to me. When I was recovering from an illness and just trying to get things together to get back on the trail, I posted in the CDT Trail Angels Facebook group asking if anyone would be willing to put me up for a night. An unexpected week in Silver City had become a strain on me mentally and financially, and I was looking for some way to relieve the strain. Almost immediately, someone responded, took me in for the night, helped me get around town to resupply, and was generally a great friend and human being. I think the trail can have a tendency to bring out the best in people and bring people together who would otherwise never have met. For me, it went a long way toward rekindling my faith in humanity and teaching me that it’s okay to ask for help when you need it. So if you’re reading this, thank you, Silver City Trail Angel!

Hiking from Silver City: First Steps on the Gila River

Silver City behind me, it was time to get back on the road and reach the Gila Wilderness. On the way out of town, I realized I had forgotten my water bottle, so I rescued a Dr. Pepper bottle and a discarded bottle cap on the side of the road (real hiker trash!). I stopped at a park and cooked salmon ramen using a dumpster as a windbreak as it was so windy that even my fish fell to the ground (don’t worry, I washed it and still ate it 👌).

Ramen grilling under the recycling bin!

Having lost time in Silver City, I quickly realized that the hiker bubble had moved on and the trail was a much emptier place. I didn’t meet any other hikers that day, but I ended up camping with a father and son at Bear Creek. They were maybe in their 70s or 40s, and they were a lot of fun to hang out with. We chatted well into the night, they shared some hot dogs with me and we had a great time. By the way, the next day they were going to look for gold in the area, which at one time was a hot spot for gold mining. I even went through an old mineral separator.

Camping at Bear Creek!

An old mineral separator!

Moving on, I was ready to start tackling the Gila River, but I didn’t realize that the trail would take me up high and over some beautiful canyon views, as well as a trail that would take me directly up the side of a mountain; without turning, without mercy. What was this, the OT? Still, the views were incredible and, to date, had been some of the best scenery in the CDT.

Beautiful canyon views in the Gila Wilderness!

Eventually, the trail dipped deep to the titular Gila River, and we immediately began a seemingly endless series of water crossings. I had heard that we crossed the river more than 100 times, so I started collecting a small stone every 10 crossings. I didn’t know how much that would start to weigh on me as we walked upstream…

The beavers are busy in the Gila!

With so many trips, your feet will be wet all day!

Halfway through the Gila alternative, you arrive at Doc Campbell’s Post; It’s practically a must-see stop for hikers, as it’s almost 130 miles from there to the next resupply in Pie Town. The people who own and operate that establishment are amazing people, I can’t emphasize that enough. Carl (with a C) was very helpful and it is clear that they have put a lot of effort into stocking the store with the supplies that hikers need and want. I sent a box here, but I want to do my part to dispel the myth that you need to send a refill box to Doc Campbell’s; absolutely not! Whether you ship a box here or restock at the Post Office, be prepared for heavy transportation. Pie Town is 130 miles away, and for me, that meant about 14 pounds of food!

An absurdly heavy resupply box at Doc Campbell’s!

Hiker’s Mecca at Doc’s! Everything you could need!

Hot Springs and Canyons: The Gila Upstream

After camping and freshening up at Doc Campbell’s house, we continued north. As you continue to follow the river (with even more crosses and collected stones), you’ll enjoy stunning views of the Gila Spiers, which are large pinnacle-shaped rock formations formed from volcanic activity and occasionally hot springs. It felt like a luxury hike to take a break and soak in the hot springs for a while! Being now behind the NOBO bubble, you often had these spectacular features to yourself to enjoy.

Gila Needles!

Kicking in Jordan Hot Springs!

Over time, as you follow the river upstream, it begins to ebb, making crossings little more than a few shallow steps or sometimes even a short hop to the opposite bank. Finally, they spat us out of the Gila and threw us into the lake of artificial snow. From there it looked like we would finally have to worry about water again and we were faced with completely new terrain. I don’t think I have ever been more impressed by seeing «nothing» than when I climbed to the top of a hill to see a barren wasteland of sparse grass dotted with the occasional juniper. It was a big contrast from where we had just come from. Oh, and the final count of Gila River crossings was exactly 250!

Behold! Nothing!

Camp, carefully set up in the fierce winds of the abyssal plane!

25 stones, 250 river crossings!

The final stretch to Pie Town

After ‘the void’, much of the rest of the way to Pie Town is dry pine forest. Here, I was forced to draw water from my most sketchy water source yet: a cow pond in the Govina Canyon alternative. If you like slimy, translucent, cow-dung water, this area is for you. Up ahead, we were about to filter water from a ‘pumpkin’ (a remote drop of water used to fight fires) when a team of wildland firefighters appeared and saved our task by giving us cool, fresh water from their truck; A miracle of a trail!

Tasty trail water!

A Forest Service pumpkin, filled with water!

That night I camped at the Valle Tío Vences campground, where I met some super nice people who were riding the Great Divide mountain bike route. One of them, Jeff, was an avid cribbage player, so he and I played a close 2-of-3 game that he won. It was fun though and I was happy for his company!

Jeff wins the cribbage match (this time…)!

I met up with a few other hikers along the way and we ended up staying at Davila Ranch, which is more or less a hiker’s oasis before Pie Town that includes a shower, laundry, and almost unlimited supplies of canned eggs, potatoes, onions, and beans. Thank goodness for this place and what they offer us weary hikers! I was appointed head chef and prepared a satisfying meal for everyone present!

Denver, Pit Stop, Shaggy and I enjoyed a meal at Davila Ranch!

Finally, that brings us to Pie Town. We stopped for lunch at Gatherin’ Place II (which I highly recommend for its food and hospitality) and will spend the night at Bunkhouse, a relatively new accommodation in Pie Town that definitely deserves the attention of other hikers. Turns out I’m still waiting for two packages here, which should arrive tomorrow (🤞).

Pastel City at last!

That’s all for now, friends! Thanks for reading and I’ll update you further north!