The Baxter Chapter
After leaving Maine’s 100 Mile Wilderness, Poncho and I hiked up the road to the Abol Pines campground, where we already had our shed waiting for us. The next morning we went on what can only be described as a pro-level food run to the Appalachian Trail Diner in Millinocket. We don’t have breakfast, we attack it. We then headed to the AT Hostel and Outfitters to enjoy the glamorous side of hiking: doing laundry, showering, charging whatever electronics we had, and pretending to smell like civilized human beings again. With clean clothes and a full stomach, we returned to Baxter State Park and set up camp at Nesowadnehunk Campground. Tomorrow the adventure would continue.
Abol Bridge
Mount Katahdin, Maine
Abol Pines Campground, Maine
Appalachian Trail Restaurant
General Store Katahdin, Maine
Nesowadnehunk lean towards
Nesowadnehunk shed
Tuesday, June 30, 2026, the morning began before the sun finished waking up. Tote Road was closing for construction, so Poncho dropped me off at the Marston Trailhead at 6:00am sharp before escaping before the road closure. North Brother would be my first peak of the challenge. Two main trails lead directly to the top of North Brother Mountain in Baxter State Park: Marston Trail and Mount Coe Trail (connecting to the top of Marston Trail). I took the Marston Trail to the top of North Brother. One less… One hundred and fourteen to go. The climb was surprisingly pleasant and I was lucky enough to share the summit with four hikers from Quebec City. Canada. Standing there I couldn’t help but smile. «Yippie!» Peak number one was in the books. Once I returned to the Marston trailhead, it was time to hike up the road to the Katahdin Stream campground. Highway construction had literally split the Tote Highway in half. The magic of the trails comes in all its forms.
Sometimes they are cookies.
Sometimes it’s cold soda.
Sometimes it’s a guy with heavy equipment saying, «I think I can help you.»
Many thanks to Keith, the roadwork maintenance supervisor at Baxter State Park, for allowing me to walk while they had the road split in half. In fact, Keith created a hunting route for me when I got there. That has to be one of the most unique acts of trail magic I have ever received. The trail really provides. ☺️
Walking to Brother North
Road hike to Katahdin Stream Campground. Tote Rd.
Magical bushwhack trail. Tote Rd.
Shelves of blueberries before breakfast
We camped at Abol Campground and that morning, Wednesday, July 1, 2026, Poncho drove me back to Katahdin Stream Campground, where I set out to connect my trail between Katahdin Stream and Abol Pines. It took two hours to walk 5.2 miles across the Blueberry ledges. I didn’t actually go see the ledges, but I could hear the water flowing as I passed by.
Blueberry Shelf Trail
Blueberry Shelf Trail
Katahdin in the background
Then came Katahdin
Thursday, July 2, 2026 I set out on the Hunt Trail at 6:15 am. The climb looked familiar. The anxiety about the climb was also familiar to me. I’ve climbed Baxter Peak before. The funny thing about mountains is that they don’t care. They don’t remember you and somehow your brain conveniently forgets how difficult they are until you’re halfway there wondering whose ridiculous idea it was. Mine. It was hot and muggy until I broke the tree line and then it became hot and windy. The climb up the hunting trail was as steep as I remembered. Anxiety also appeared just in time. Boo Kitty. I came to a large cliff known as Gateway. Once I climbed the Gateway, I walked across flat alpine terrain known as the Tablelands. About 0.8 miles from the top of Baxter Peak I reached Thoreau Spring. Henry David Thoreau climbed Mount Katahdin in 1846. Knowing that Henry David Thoreau had been in this same wilderness almost 180 years ago made me pause for a moment. I reached the top of Katahdin, also known as Baxter Peak (5,267 feet) at 11:30 a.m., had a quick snack, took some pictures, took some videos, and started hiking the Saddle Trail. No delays. There was still another mountain waiting.
Climbing in Katahdin. Climbing the Hunt Trail
Standing on Baxter Peak looking towards the edge
Behind me is the edge of knives
It’s not goodbye, it’s see you later.
Sunset in Millinocket
Hamlin had other plans
I descended the Saddle Trail and climbed to Hamlin Peak (4,756 feet), reaching the summit around 1:30 pm. I put down my backpack to take a breather… and immediately saw my umbrella turn into one in the wind. Up and over the ridge. Missing. Continue straight toward Chimney Pond. I stood there for a second, in disbelief. Then I laughed. Hamlin won that round.
I took the obligatory summit photo, accepted defeat with the umbrella, and returned via the Saddle Trail before flying across the Baxter Peak Cut Trail onto the Hunt Trail toward Katahdin Stream Campground. Eleven hours and seventeen minutes after starting, I returned to the dirt road we entered. Amen. I did it.
Cocked.
Made.
One hundred and twelve are missing.
Hamlin Peak. Except my umbrella.
Looking at Baxter Peak from Hamlin Peak. Mourning the loss of my umbrella.
Become the wolf 🐺
The next morning I dropped Poncho off at Medway bus station. Goodbyes along the way are fun. We know we will see each other again because we are married but we are also hikers and goodbyes are very hard. See you on the road, Poncho, thanks for everything!! I love you infinitely ❤️
I headed the Wolf Mobile south toward Monson and Shaw’s Hiker Hostel. The next chapter was waiting.
Sometimes people ask me why I choose to do things like this. Why spend months chasing mountains? Why voluntarily climb into something that scares you? Why keep going when your legs are tired, you’re sweating, your gear is flying off cliffs, and you have 112 other summits staring you in the face? Because at some point between the fight and the summit something changes. You remember that you are capable of more than you thought…and maybe that’s what this whole journey is really about. I’m not only collecting pickaxes, but also the proof that I can do it. 🌄
~Goldilocks
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