I have been following the Teifi trail carefully and will take it to where it empties into the sea at Abertefi. Aber means mouth of a river, hence names like Aberystwyth or Aberconwy, which mean the mouth of their respective rivers Istwyth and Conwy.
Trip Lampeter Llanybydder
My first plan on leaving Lampeter was to see if I could find Peters Well, a sacred well supposedly located in a field outside the city. Epic failure. There is nothing to see. More on this later.
The river made great curves, under a gray sky and a cold wind. The grass was wet with dew and soon my feet and ankles felt clammy and cold.
Teifi Trail offers #1
I decided to take a break and put on some extra clothes to try and stay warm, I turned a corner to find a stile through a large hedge and there was a large picnic table with benches. It is possible for me to get up and down from the ground, but it is uncomfortable. So a table and bench are a big help if I need a break. It also provided an easy surface to make this sketch of trees under gray clouds. A small blue stain was visible (enough to make a pair of pants for a sailor, as my mother used to say). Out of sight, across the river, I could hear a shepherd and his dog gathering sheep. There was a very loud Baa Baa Baaing and I could occasionally hear familiar barking and commands from my walk through the English Lake District: come in! Lie down! Far!
Teifi Trail offers #2
Here the river took a wide bend and the trail moved along paths to higher ground. First I had to pass by a group of cows with calves, always tense, since they are very protective. Closing the door in relief, I found myself being watched by a group of young heifers, lying peacefully chewing their cud, at least one of which was frightened by me. Instead of following the official route, I slipped into the main corral. I was hoping to go unnoticed, but D and S were there working. Farmers have a right to sulk when they leave the trail, but the Teifi trail provided these two who were charming. D understood my doubts, asked me where I was going and told me about the farm. Including the terrifying idea that when the river overflows it can be up to three feet deep right where we were… a major flood can be eight feet deep!
speaking welsh
Further down the lane, a vehicle stopped and the driver rolled down his window. “Bore Da” (good morning) I say in my best Welsh accent. Cue a long stream of fluent Welsh of which I understood nothing. I had to laugh and explain how limited my Welsh is, although I’m trying to learn. We then had a lovely conversation about holy wells, harps and the beauty of mid Wales. He remembered well visiting Peters in Lampeter as a child, but said it was all gone now. He thought it was sad that the well had not been preserved, and so did I.
Showing respect for Wales, at least trying to speak a little Welsh, goes a long way to creating friendly relations. I can understand why the Welsh are cautious and reserved towards those who come from the east of the hills and the border marked by Offas Dyke. The Romans started it, invaded and seized the gold of Wales; The Cistercian monks continued, trading in the resources of Wales. English kings and governments have been completely oppressive for many centuries and, in the industrial age, extractivist businessmen exchanged untold quantities of Welsh iron and coal with little benefit to local communities. My motto is to always learn something in the preferred language of the local population.
Teifi Trail offers #3
The route took me up high with nice views, then into more secluded fields, crossing small tributaries of the main river. The last section, which took me to my destination for the night, was along a very narrow but busy road, with many curves and without any safe place for the walker. I had to keep weaving through traffic gaps, trying to make sure cars could see me as they went around the curves. The progress was slow and full of adrenaline.
I crossed to a space in front of a house to take a break and received an unexpectedly cheerful greeting from S, who had been working on the farm earlier. He is also a great walker and told me much of his life story. He was worried about me on the road, “there have been fatal accidents,” he warned, “it is very dangerous.” Anyway, he insisted that I get into his car to drive the last kilometer, the most dangerous, to the town. The Teifi Trail delivers!!
Llanybydder
The church had a very fine sturdy tower, dating back to the 16th century, I believe. I was excited that it had a curved circular cemetery. This usually means that the church was built on a pre-Christian Celtic site, where a stone circle would have been, like Stonehenge, only much smaller. I love these connections to the deep past.
Trip Llanybydder Llandysul
The next day dawned clear, sunny and breezy. Ideal weather for walking. I started high and then descended into the river valley, passing this amazing strip of bluebells, which perfumed the air and waved in the breeze.
I felt very blessed to have another day of exceptional spring beauty. I didn’t find any sacred wells, but I enjoyed this non-holy well in a front garden.
I also found myself crossing another long distance trail. I had never heard of Via Beata before seeing this sign. It turns out it’s a pilgrim trail that runs from Lowestoft to St David’s in Pembrokeshire.
I walked into a large empty field and got upset because my phone kept ringing. I turn off notifications anyway, but I couldn’t figure out why it kept making annoying noises. I finally realized that my OS’s mapping application had a glitch that I managed to silence with some difficulty. I must have been very distracted. I jumped out of my skin as I heard loud footsteps and a snort right behind me. I thought I was blocking another hiker, but it was another large group of cows. I could hear his breathing.
Teifi Trail offers #4
I could see the door and headed towards it, but it was open and the cows entered after only a few moments of hesitation. I headed to the corner where I could see another door and went through it just as they approached me.
They pressed against the door looking at me, was it just curiosity or malicious intent? Who knows. The trail provides a gateway at the best of times. I like their “pending”, they all have a unique number in the “national flock”.
The next hour took me along a lovely riverside path, under trees full of birds.
I ended up in a quiet little country church and sat in the sun drawing.
I continued on to Llandysul, although I could have stayed forever.
Teifi Trail offers #5
I had a delicious dinner of Welsh dishes at Y Porth restaurant, Welsh Rarebit and Glamorgan leek sausages. I ate it all before it occurred to me to photograph the city’s food in Trek tradition. I’m sorry.
I started chatting with Rhodry, who turns out to be one of the organizers/instigators of the Teifi Trail! It was officially opened with 120 guests just a few days before I started touring it. They cut a great ribbon and I hope they got down on their knees* to celebrate. He gave me this Teifi Trail badge, which I will treasure. I’m probably one of the first people to hike the trail since it officially opened, which feels GREAT!!!
*kneeling means a good dance party.
Forward towards the sea!
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