Back in Fontana, I heard about a very interesting trail angel called Freshgrounds. He sits you down, makes you wash your hands, and then the feast begins. He feeds you until you can’t walk, or so I hear. But when you finally get to the place where you thought it was at the beginning of that month, it’s gone.
Always so elusive, but always so kind. Their philosophy is that there are some people way ahead of the bubble who would rarely get trail magic. Being among that crowd, in front of the bubble, I find it to be true. Not that I’m expecting anything, I’m not. In fact, I am willing to not receive even the slightest help. But it’s a nice relief when that happens.
However, this story is a little different. Every time I missed it, I knew I was getting closer and wanted to experience this feast in nature for myself as part of the adventure I had along the way. So I pushed and pushed and pushed. But still, very far away.
Damascus
Beyond where we left off last time, I made some pretty notable progress on my book. I managed to complete the Damascus Dash in 11 hours and 45 minutes. The Damascus Dash is a 42 mile day that starts at Boots Off Hostel and heads towards Damascus in a solid effort.
I had heard from other travelers that we were close… but very far from Damascus. After that ridiculously difficult push, I ran into two absolutely crazy hikers, Sparkles and Rhett, at the Broken Fiddle Hostel. Sparkles is going for a world record and Rhett will join her on the Eastern Continental Trail (ECT) portion.
Their goal is to hike further than Pegleg did last year, which consists of a border-to-border Triple Crown that begins on the Florida Trail on January 1. It’s very impressive, and even my big mile days between 26 and 30 miles struggle to maintain the consistency she’s been managing, averaging over 30 miles a day. I thought I was a big, tough hiker until I was completely humiliated.
The push
They had a feeling that if we pushed hard, 80 miles in three days, we would reach Freshgrounds. So we did consecutive brutal days. Unfortunately, on the second day, I had to take a work call and they took me to a place with Internet. I stopped at the Bear Garden Hostel and only managed 28 miles one day, but I figured I could walk fast the next day and catch up with them. Sparkles and Rhett, however, made 31 and woke up at 5:30 and left at 6.
So, lo and behold, on the third day, after riding 66 miles and then putting in 20 miles to get to where Freshgrounds was, I managed to catch it just before it took off. He fed me and catching mustard seeds graciously allowed me to obtain some apples, a sandwich and his famous blue juice. Gobbling it all up like a seagull eating French fries, I knew I needed to experience their feast at least once.
The last chance
After that I started increasing my mileage again and maintained a steady marathon mileage for a few days until I arrived at the Weary Feet Hostel, where I met up with Sparkles and Rhett again. Thinking they would be moving too fast for me, it was a pleasant surprise. We chatted and people asked us (mainly Sparkles) what it’s like to ride big 30+ miles. It was fun and we all had lovely chats about one of our passions.
Not thinking that it was possible and that I had lost the opportunity to get Freshgrounds, I continued ahead. After saying goodbye to my friends, I made a few shorter days and then increased the distance again. Then it happened… ‘If you keep moving forward, Freshgrounds will feed you’… Yeah, right. Then I ran into more hikers: “Did you hear that if you stay at Freshgrounds, he makes breakfast?” I still didn’t believe it. Then, as we were walking down the hill toward the parking area, I saw him. The famous van that had driven into the distance. It was Freshgrounds. And for dinner: scallops and seafood combination, salad, grilled cheese, fruit, cake, quiche and French fries.
I was stunned. Baffled, really. I couldn’t believe I had caught him. I didn’t know what to say. He knew she was curious to see him again, but unfortunately, his mysterious ways prevented her from spilling the beans. And that’s fine. I understood the part of the story he was trying to get. I took the carrot, so to speak. Freshgrounds fueled me.
The next morning, she made some blueberry pancakes with potatoes, bacon, and coffee. It was incredible. Grateful, we said goodbye and I left. Fueled by delicious food and lovely conversations, I rode another 45 miles to the base of Virginia’s Triple Crown.
the crown
The Triple Crown consists of three climbs, and if you make it to Daleville, it’s a brutal 35-mile hike. Start by climbing Dragon’s Tooth. I didn’t take any photos of it, but it is a very interesting rock formation at the top of the mountain, and probably the most technical of the three. Then you hike to Macafee Knob, the most photographed area of the AT, and finally to Tinkers Cliff. It’s incredibly beautiful, but it chases you in the distance as you approach, and is the most brutal of all due to its long approach after a long day.
Then there are the cliffs towards Daleville. Where it seems kinder to you, but you’re still tired and ready to call it a day afterward. But it is relentless. I was anxious to get to Daleville because Sparkles called and asked if I wanted the other bed in the hotel room. I was so excited to get some sleep in a bed with good food.
We finally made it. And the lessons I learned were exceptional. This was a good section and absolutely beautiful. So far, Virginia has been my favorite state.
The lessons
Keep pushing, don’t give up until the end.
Four tenants
You’re fast, but not that fast.
Consistency is better than anything else.
The food is good
Set a goal and use it as part of your story.
I love the process
You are here for a reason, enjoy it.
Recommendations
The Broken Fiddle Hostel – good vibes, unforgettable moments
The Bear Garden Hostel: try their cake challenge
The Weary Feet Hostel – Super cool place, amazing food.
BeeCh Hill Hostel: Beth is super friendly and just out of the way.
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