Although not listed on Far Out, a short distance from the Hilliard Falls trail is a charming little campground, right next to the creek. Through the leaves along the edge of the camp, you can see the waterfalls flowing in the distance.
The sound echoed through the trees.
On the morning of the third day, I had no desire to get out of my sleeping bag. It wasn’t too cold and my muscles didn’t particularly hurt, but I was TIRED.
However, it was a very subtle tiredness, so I shook it off and got moving.
After packing up camp, I ran the remaining part of the trail to the waterfall. Glenn Hilliard Falls, named after the founder of the Foothills Trail Conservancy, was my second favorite on this trail, second only to the Whitewater Falls I saw the day before.
Not only was the falls perfect, lined with stone allowing close access, but the pool it flowed into was picturesque. I can’t explain how this waterfall fulfilled some strange rainforest fantasy I had buried deep in my brain, but it did.
Probably after too much time, I returned to the trail.
Two kilometers later, I reached the halfway point.
I told myself over and over how good I felt, and even though it was true, I moved slowly. Every time I noticed my pace, I felt a sense of dread that would soon be replaced by hope as I passed hikers along the way.
One gentleman in particular said I looked «lively.»
I didn’t feel very encouraged, but when he said that, I felt a little more pep in my step.
At some point during the day, I realized what my problem was.
Snacks. I hadn’t been eating my snacks.
Rookie mistake.
I had been so focused on hydration, pace and miles that I hadn’t eaten enough, so I was slow and tired. Realizing this made me recalculate. I knew that if I wanted to finish in four days, I would need to average around 20 miles both that day and the next.
8 miles later, I got cell service and called my husband.
There was no way I could go nearly 20 miles.
I half expected him to be disappointed, but instead he encouraged me to walk at a comfortable pace and see where I landed come dinnertime. At that point, I could refuel, rest, and reassess.
I wasn’t out of the game, I just slowed down momentarily. I knew I had three big challenges ahead:
- Anguish Crest
- sassafras mountain
- Pinnacle Mountain
Despite the suggestion that I refrain from focusing on miles, it was easier said than done.
I spent the rest of the day debating whether or not I wanted to suffer through Heartbreak Ridge at the end of my day, or if I wanted to start my next morning with it.
When I arrived at Toxaway Campground, the last stop before the ridge, I decided to rip off the band-aid.
Heartbreak Ridge, according to the elevation map, is only about 300 feet of elevation gain. I hesitated about it. The elevation didn’t seem too intimidating, but the way people talked about it online made me wonder if I was incapable of reading the map properly.
I continued up, up and down the almost 600 steps that made up the trail.
I found the ridge to be more of a curiosity and annoyance than the endless stairs of doom I expected. That’s not to say I wasn’t tired and overcome when I finished. I just wouldn’t be completely scared if I had to do it again.
The Far Out app details two campsites after the ridge.
They were both busy.
I pressed on, accepting that it would be a good 3 or 4 miles before I reached the next campsite. Although, as I turned the corner, I was surprised to find another place to camp.
There’s an old saying I think about often: The path provides.
The site didn’t have good access to water, so I went over to get some water from the neighboring stream. I filtered two bottles of water and reserved a full water bag for later. My goal for the night was to eat and drink as much as possible before going to bed.
The bugs on my site were so overwhelming that I actually took out my bug net for a moment. Small mosquitoes and gnats struggled to find a way. I sprayed myself with DEET, expecting minimal impact like it would be in the ADK, but it was a lifesaver.
That night I was able to drink two more liters of water, my dinner, and at least two days’ worth of snacks.
As I lay in my tent with my feet elevated on my backpack, I thought about my plan again.
According to my map, there was between 26 and 27 miles of trail left. I gave no consideration to the mile-long walk to my car after the tour. 22 miles was the most I walked in a single day, and each time I did it I was late to camp. The thought of taking an extra day, even if it was 5 miles, was disappointing to me.
I felt pretty good after my previous 22 mile day. 26 is only 4 more than 22 and 27 is only one more than 26.
I bet I could do it.
I set my alarm for 5 am and took Tylenol.
27 miles.
I must have been losing my mind.
And with that I went to bed.
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