Angeles National Forest
The weather was gorgeous when I left. Wrightwood and rose to the top of Mount Baden-Powell. I relaxed at the top, enjoying the panoramic views and the tranquility of being the only one there.
The hike from Powell to Little Jimmy’s camp. It was nice. Tall, shady trees lined the path, but I arrived at dusk. Since I had been warned that there were many bears in the area, I skipped dinner and went straight to bed. In my haste to secure my force field, I broke the zipper on one of the vestibules of my tent. I fixed it as best I could, but to my dismay, there was just enough room left for a bear’s head to fit through.
To compound my gear issues, the Vibram sole of my shoe came off while I was leaving camp the next morning. This was very unfortunate because it was 66 miles from the nearest town. Other than feeling the stones through my shoe and slipping a little, I got it running without any major problems.
Secret Waterfall
At some point in Angeles National ForestTrail closure protects habitat for endangered species mountain yellow legged frog. This forces hikers to take a detour on a closed mountain road for 3 miles before returning to the PCT via the Burkhart Trail. Storm damage had closed the entire area to the public, and walking along the road, trail, and deserted campsites felt a little eerie.
Mother Nature or a really hungry bear?
Where the Burkhart Trail crosses the PCT, a cutting leads to Cooper Canyon Falls. I decided to do a side quest and see the waterfall. It was a steep descent and at the end there was a rope hanging to rappel down to the water. My 30 pound backpack made it quite challenging, but it was also fun. Because the area was closed, I had the pool to myself for the afternoon.
Anything cold = improves mood
The next few days were not so pleasant. As I walked out of the forest and back into the desert, the heat and the thorn bushes that overflowed the trail scraped my legs.
One afternoon, I arrived at a water tank in the North Fork Saddle Ranger Station feeling quite irritable. That is, until the caretaker came out and offered me a cold beer and some snacks, which instantly improved my mood. Drinking hot water for days wears you out and anything cold is a pleasure. Despite the concerns, the hazy IPA paired excellently with the rice krispie delights.
My spirits lifted, I decided to go another eight miles even though it was late to get to the RV park where my new shoes were waiting for me and, more importantly, where they sold ice cream.
Since the trail was mostly descending, I made good time. Another hiker and I arrived just in time to grab my shoes, some pizza, and some ice cream. We joined some weekend campers and spent the rest of the afternoon watching movies on a projector. It was a good end to the day.
Fresh Water
The next day, I headed to the small town of fresh water to resupply. On the way I passed by Vasquez Rocks County Park. The rock formations in the park were very pretty and apparently served as a backdrop for many movies, such as trip to the stars, planet of the apesand Burning saddles.
Over the next few days, it was more of the same hot hike through the desert. Much of the area had previously been burned and a plant called poodle dog bush was taking control. Although it is very pretty, it causes a very bad rash, so I was constantly on the lookout.
Don’t be fooled by the pretty purple flower.
At one point, the brush grew so big that it forced me to take a service road where I saw all kinds of animal tracks: coyotes, foxes, deer, pumas, and even marks indicating a snake crossing. It seemed like everything on the mountain was trying to avoid the poodle bush.
Later that night, a loud screeching noise woke me up. It was a terrifying sound. Whatever it was, it was big and close. I reached for my headlamp and knife, but after the third scream, the animal left. Other hikers I spoke to suspected it was a mountain lion. Luckily I escaped this section without a rash and with all my limbs intact.
Pancakes!
Since I’m near the back of the hiking pack, trail magic is rare. So when I read a comment that someone was cooking pancakes for hikers in the Valle Verde Fire StationI was elated.
I left camp at 5am to make sure I made it to the 7:30am deadline. As I approached the station, I passed a couple walking their dog, who, seeing the desperation in my eyes, assured me that the pancake man would be there as promised.
Even though there were only two hikers, Trader Joe (the pancake man) had an elaborate breakfast: pancakes, sausage, fresh fruit, iced coffee, etc. It was a delight. He was a super nice guy and did this out of the kindness of his heart.
the aqueduct
Before reaching a very long desert stretch known as the Aqueductthere is a place called hiker city where you can refill water and rest during the day. Most hikers choose to do this section at night due to the heat.
The general area is a bit eerie. It is deserted, with miles and miles of deteriorated land. Ironically, I met a producer who was making a horror film about the murder of PCT members. So I had that to think about as I walked into the desert at night. Nothing scary.
I didn’t get very far though. Around 10pm, I stopped night walks and set up my tent; It’s just not for me. Instead, I got up early to finish the Aqueduct section before it got unbearably hot. It basically involved walking uphill all day through a very large wind farm. It was hot but there was a breeze.
Tehachapi to Kennedy Meadows
There was too much wind when entering Tehachapi. About five miles from the road I planned to hitchhike from, the wind picked up tremendously to the point where it was difficult to walk and a little dangerous.
Gusts of up to 70 mph came and I had to prepare myself in a defensive position so as not to fly off the mountain. The wind changed direction quickly and frequently, forcing me to stumble along the path like a drunk fighting an invisible force. It was very slow and exhausting, so I was happy to get into town and spend the night recovering.
The last stretch of desert before arriving Kennedy Meadows and the beginning of the Sierra section was quite pleasant. The section was a mix of desert and forest as it moved towards steep mountains.
I was camping on the edge of Sequoia National Forest one night when my eyes shot open after hearing what was unmistakably a bear at my campsite. I sat down and in my most intimidating voice yelled at the bear to leave. I could have added a please (it doesn’t hurt to be polite). In reality, it probably came out very high-pitched and hesitant, but I reinforced it with some loud clapping. To my relief, the big beast ran away.
The rest of the walk was less eventful. I had good weather and arrived at The general store at Kennedy Meadows to the applause of a large crowd gathered to celebrate my arrival and, to a lesser extent, our nation’s birthday.
Apparently, it’s tradition to ring a bell and encourage hikers as they approach. It also happened to be the 4th of July and there was barbecue, beer, and a live band. That night I spent time enjoying the festivities with a group of hikers. It was a great reward for finishing the difficult desert stretch.
My reward.
