Far above the cold of the Misty Mountains (aka The Smokies)

Week 5: Go alone

Being alone after being with my partner for a month felt very different. Being in the honeymoon phase with someone for the first time after overcoming the heartbreak of a decade-long relationship was very encouraging. It was really nice and I’m grateful for that time. At first I was sad that it was over, but I’m still so excited about life that I’m great. It was just a small transition. It was really nice to have David and his teammates there for the first two days of this change. Having to leave them was hard but necessary for my goals.

I headed to Shuckstackmy first view in the Smokies. It sure was a little eerie and smoky up there, but great! Being alone again is giving me a lot of time to reflect and think about my life and what I want; Which is what I’m here to do… well!

The trail quickly tested that resolve. I booked it in the pouring rain from Russell Field Shelter, which was closed due to bear activity, to Spence Field. I walked with some interesting kids from Oklahoma; I liked talking to them and I had fun at the shelter.

Then came several days in a row of bad weather. My whole body hurt and my morale was low. Luckily, my mom’s homemade s’mores, fluffernutter, or Christmas Eve pecan oats are the perfect warming, filling, love-filled meal to give you a boost these days. I am a lucky man. It’s better than Lembas bread!

During the rain, I made new friends, Drafty and Banshee. They were great company, as were some local guys we met. Drafty gave me the trail name «Bop-It» because he was wearing one. Banshee gave me «Jukebox» because my speaker was always playing in the shelters and my affinity for good tunes. The lodges in the Smokies are made of stone and have indoor fireplaces! It’s very nice, and Banshee always had a nice fire going when my slow ass showed up.

The weather was killing my vibe so I needed a break and I also really wanted to see Gatlinburg. I reserved it for Kuwohi. (formerly Clingmans Dome) and a lovely couple took it “almost” to town. They dropped me off at the bypass toward Pigeon Forge and I walked the last mile. I could find a lot in it Glenstone Lodge because it was midweek.

On the way into town, I saw Drafty and Banshee at the NOC in Gatlinburg. It’s always a pleasure! The staff at the Gatlinburg NOC were true angels. They went out of their way to help me fix my bag (I left it outside the hostel while I was washing clothes to dry and a bear mauled it on the second floor balcony!) and made sure I had everything I needed to keep me moving. As for the Glenstone Lodge, it was VERY NICE for the price. All the staff were very friendly and helpful and the pool was crazy; Multi-level, with waterfall and jacuzzi. Stay there if you’re ever in Gatlinburg! While you’re on the Strip, you MUST also get a corn dog from Fannie Farkles worth every penny.

I made a great new friend and confidant in town. He invited me to lunch at (Jason Aldean’s) Sun Records Diner, where I continued my biscuits and gravy tour. The waitress, Bianca, was an absolute angel. We really enjoyed talking to her, and the food and mimosas were GAS. There were huge, delicious chunks of sausage in the gravy, and I even took my friend’s biscuits and gravy to go! Afterwards, we rode a sickening alpine coaster and visited a fun museum of oddities.

I also explored the strip on a date with myself, which is also a big part of this journey. I enjoyed visiting all the little shops and buying samples of moonshine and cider. The Mountain Mall was really great, and the Gatlin-Burlier Tobacconists It was my favorite, it smelled great there, the staff was great and you can try the pipe tobacco. I had to take a photo with the mushroom man as I always loved working there and slandering pies!

Week 6: Pipe smoking and attachment to the shelter

Back on the road, I passed 200 miles! This time I went up to see Kuwohi, but there were too many people for me. I went to the visitor center to get my AT passport stamped and a young tourist asked me if I was hiking and bought me a chocolate bar.

I just took a photo and kept it moving. Charlie’s Bunion was great, but I found an even better view just 10 meters after the blue exit which I had to myself.

I enjoy my alone time a little more now, but I still enjoy meeting new people and having these fantastic interactions. I’ve been walking alone most days, but I’m trying to get to the shelters in time to visit them when I can. From the end of the Smokies on, I have met some great people! Although there are no new colleagues yet.

The Mt. Collins and Icewater Spring lodges were great! I took every blue flare with potential to see something interesting in the Smokies. I sang and took off my booty!

I’m running out of weed towards the end of the week and haven’t been sleeping well, so it’s making me anxious. I generally don’t sleep in shelters, but I had to get used to it in the Smokies. The last two days of the week I stayed in two completely full shelters. It was fun! Lots of interesting people and great days of hiking.

Mount Cammemer was really cool. A stone fire tower built by the conservation corps in the 40’s. Probably my favorite part.

Two months on the road change a man. Breaking the 200 mile mark and leaving the Smokies behind has been a master class in learning to look inward. While the initial pain of a changing fellowship left me raw, the mountains immediately provided exactly what I needed. From the absolute lifesaver of my mother’s home-cooked meals during freezing rains, to the cozy stone fireplaces shared with new friends like Drafty and Banshee. Going out of the way for a solo date in Gatlinburg reminded me that learning to love my own company is a huge part of this quest. Making a great new friend reminded me that I’m shit too. The terrain is getting tougher, it’s a little harder to sleep, and the anxiety is real; but as I chase the white flames into the field, I’m finding my rhythm. The Shire is far behind me, no new companions have yet joined the march and I am perfectly happy to begin my own walk towards the next horizon.

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